Several classic single pitch trad routes can be found here at Illusion Crags. The routes on the left side face almost south and the routes continue around to the main cliff that faces east. The routes on the left generally have walkoffs, and on the main face the routes usually feature rappel anchors - these are long pitches and two ropes may be required to rap. Most of the first ascents out here were by Joe Herbst and friends.
Getting There
There are two approaches to Illusion Crags. First is to approach as per Windy Canyon via the cutoff from Black Velvet Canyon Road. This may be preferable.
The shorter approach is also a dirt road - this may be a little more rough on your car but still generally manageable with 2WD. About a mile west of the BVC road turnoff from the highway, there is another turnoff on the right. Head off the highway to the north and follow the dirt road as it parallels the highway, heading west, into a stream bed. This stream bed features loose gravel and it's easy to get stuck in. After about a quarter mile from the highway, at a cairn, head north out of the stream bed then bear left when opportunities are presented. Stop at the small parking area that is closest to the Crags.
Once parked, head west, down into the wash and up across open desert to the cliff. There is a well marked trail if you can find it..
The guidebooks are a little confusing regarding this area. Swain and Brock contradict each other on the location and ordering of routes (especially Spell Me). So far, I've found Swain to be more accurate.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Apr 1, 2007
I agree with John here. There are several routes in the older Swain guide not listed in the newer Brock guidebook. We had difficulty locating many of the routes based on the book descriptions.
Illusion Crags
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