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Yaak Crack 

Yaak Crack 

5.11d

   

FA: Bill Boyle, 1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 2,156 page views

Submitted By: Joe Collins on Jan 2, 2001


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BETA PHOTO: The Gallery


Description 

This along with the Gift probably constitute the two most classic sport routes at the Gallery. This one is exceedingly popular, so best to be patient if you plan on giving this one multiple tries.

Fun pumpy climbing follows the crack system, though no actual crack climbing is required. As with the other routes at the Gallery, this one is probably a bit soft compared to similarly graded climbs at, say, Rifle. Classic and awesome climbing, nonetheless.


Protection 

6 bolts



Photos of Yaak Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Kobobel lay backing on good holds

Josh Kobobel lay backing on good holds

Josh climbs Yaak Crack with views of the canyons in the background

Josh climbs Yaak Crack with views of the canyons i...

Gary Savage on Yaak Crack.

Gary Savage on Yaak Crack.

The Yak Crack

The Yak Crack

Chalking up and flagging on the Yaak Crack

Chalking up and flagging on the Yaak Crack

Amy starting up the route.

Amy starting up the route.

Dan running a lap to show us some beta.

Dan running a lap to show us some beta.

Yaak crack

Yaak crack

Dustin jumps off the top

Dustin jumps off the top

neato climb.

neato climb.

adam strickland giving me a catch.

adam strickland giving me a catch.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 22, 2009
By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2004
rating: 5.11b

A little over a decade ago, in a time when 5.11d was not an on-sight for me or my 5.10-climbing partner, we both got on this climb, and both did it. The grade we agreed upon was lower 5.11. Nice route though.

By Randy
Feb 24, 2004
rating: 5.11b/c

Definitely not 11d. A good warm up route for the Gift.

By 10b4me
Aug 15, 2004

Grades schmades. I put my hand in ze crack it feels good. Yes!!!

By Josh Beck
Nov 2, 2004
rating: 5.11b

More fun than I was expecting and a lot easier as well. Technically I guess it finishes at the anchors to the right of the crack as the anchors to the left are for Minstrel...

By chad wolak
Aug 1, 2006

fun climbing

By John Wilder
Nov 12, 2006
rating: 5.11c

really fun climb- i'm not an .11 leader on a regular basis and i managed to flash this route- so i'd agree it's not .11+, despite having nothing to compare it to.

that said, it seems like if you can milk the hand jam rest halfway up, it's definitely easier. i watched some folks who avoided it whip higher up from the pump....

have fun!

By neb417
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 12, 2007

best route at the gallery

By 426
Mar 19, 2007

Yes, classic. I remember this one because right after I onsighted, Bachar soloed "The Gift"...I got two rushes for the price of one.

By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 13, 2007
rating: 5.11b

Delightfully fun route. No single move is particularly hard; the challenge is dealing with the pump.

By BenL
Feb 27, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c

nowhere near 11d...
very good climbing, steep and great holds!

By Jon Zucco
Mar 26, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c

i nearly onsighted this...got pumped going to the chains. but none-the-less, it would've been my hardest onsight by far. I'd agree with everyone and say it was more like a super sustained 11b with maybe one C move in there somewhere. But it's hard to tell with overhang like that.

By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Apr 22, 2009
rating: 5.11d

I think it's 11c/d if you only climb sport/boulder... I led it as such years ago and struggled at the top. Now, with my new found crack technique I find it easier... If you can jam, you be jammin... Awesome route!