This along with the Gift probably constitute the two most classic sport routes at the Gallery. This one is exceedingly popular, so best to be patient if you plan on giving this one multiple tries.
Fun pumpy climbing follows the crack system, though no actual crack climbing is required. As with the other routes at the Gallery, this one is probably a bit soft compared to similarly graded climbs at, say, Rifle. Classic and awesome climbing, nonetheless.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Feb 24, 2004 rating: 5.11b
A little over a decade ago, in a time when 5.11d was not an on-sight for me or my 5.10-climbing partner, we both got on this climb, and both did it. The grade we agreed upon was lower 5.11. Nice route though.
More fun than I was expecting and a lot easier as well. Technically I guess it finishes at the anchors to the right of the crack as the anchors to the left are for Minstrel...
really fun climb- i'm not an .11 leader on a regular basis and i managed to flash this route- so i'd agree it's not .11+, despite having nothing to compare it to.
that said, it seems like if you can milk the hand jam rest halfway up, it's definitely easier. i watched some folks who avoided it whip higher up from the pump....
i nearly onsighted this...got pumped going to the chains. but none-the-less, it would've been my hardest onsight by far. I'd agree with everyone and say it was more like a super sustained 11b with maybe one C move in there somewhere. But it's hard to tell with overhang like that.
By Jon O'Brien From: Nevada Apr 22, 2009 rating: 5.11d
I think it's 11c/d if you only climb sport/boulder... I led it as such years ago and struggled at the top. Now, with my new found crack technique I find it easier... If you can jam, you be jammin... Awesome route!
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