Ahhh, winter in Vegas! Photo courtesy of Andy May...
Description
One of the best and most famous hard-12 sport climbs in North America. It's been called 12c for years, but most of the current guidebooks now rate it 12d. This is an awesome, steep, strenuous route, involving thuggish climbing to a delicate crux at the very end.
Much of the climbing in the lower section would probably clock in at about 12a/b. The crux, involving a technical high step and reach to an elusive pebble, is not that hard in of itself, but the precision required for this move is usually hard to come by after the pumpy climbing below. For those who project in this grade range, the key to the redpoint is to ruthlessly wire the lower section so that one can arrive at the crux fresh.
On a sunny winter day, one can enjoyably spend the afternoon watching numerous people cruising the lower section only to be spit off by the crux, again and again and again.
Protection
Bolts. There are usually in situ QDs in place, except for the first bolt
Joe's description is a good one. I recall at the time (10+ years ago) thinking the route felt 'soft' for 12d, because at that time (and come to think of it, still) I usually can't buy my way up a 12d. The thing is, my opinion was unqualified, because I never red-pointed it (hang). I distinctly remember people shouting 'dynamic' beta at me through the lower section but doing it static and calling it 11+ though the lower part, but at the top I was wiped out and hung for minutes before finishing. So Joe's advice seems right on. The grade? Hard to say... I've only been on or done a few routes at that grade- most were 'harder' (more dificult, tricky or technical) but maybe this grade is correct.It did seem to me, and still does, that I climbed a few letter grades harder at Redrocks than in most other places.
It has been probably 8 years since I did this route, but (like almost all Red Rocks routes) it was very soft for the 12d rating. I was a bit disappointed when it got downrated to 12c, but that is really a fairer grade.
It's .12c if you cruise it, and .12d if you barely send it. If you don't send it, well, you don't have the right to grade it. Honestly people, who cares if its a "soft" .12d? The route is incredible, with awesome moves.
Funny, I figure if I make a living habbit of dogging 12d's, then maybe I'd know what one feels like dogging it. Or maybe if I can't buy my way up a 10c, but I bought my way up this, then maybe my opinion is still valid.
Or maybe if you don't on-sight it, you aren't entitiled to an opinion either and a red point is the same as a hangdog to me. In which case, I bet your opinion is also invalid.
I think any qualified opinion is valid, just be clear and state what your experience with teh route is, TR, hangdog, or On-sight.
I was trying to be fair, but since you push the issue, No Way is the route 12d. 12b/c is really more like it, OK? There are 12bs at Josh and Rifle that are harder. Almost no technique is required, only endurance. It is a good route, but let's not get overly effusive.
Randy if you haven't been on it in 8-years than I could see why you would say soft. Just remember, everytime it rains at RR, there will STILL be people climbing at the Gallery. Many of the holds have broken down over time from people climbing during wet weather. Some of the positive holds are not so positive anymore and some are just flat out gone. If you think its soft, jump on it now and send it up. I bet you just might change your mind!
There is nothing "thuggish" about this route. I say 12d. People are quick to downgrade this route becuase many "cruise the lower section" only to take a number of tries to get the redpoint. I'm sure that there are very few true onsights of the Gift.
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