The right-hand variation, nice moves on good holds...
Description
This route may have been named for the difficulty in getting to and clipping the first two bolts.
Near the far right end of the Sweet Pain wall there is a big rounded bowl inset into the wall.
Climb up and into the bowl of rock, clipping one bolt. Reportedly this route can be done at 5.10a by moving right, up and then back left to the second bolt, but this seemed broken-up and less of a natural line to me. As well, I watched a 5'2" partner try to pink-point the route this way, and she was unable to get to a good stance to clip the second bolt this way, eventually electing to pass the crux, then clip it below.
Climbing up and left for the first few bolts felt like insecure 5.10c, but was a better and probably safer line. Climb past 3 more bolts on easier terrain to the fixed anchor on top of the route.
This is not a good line to push your limits on.
Protection
A set of draws for the bolts. Shorter climbers will find the climb awkward and clips difficult for the grade expressed here. Blowing the second clip would result in a ground fall.
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