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Magic Bus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blonde Dwarf 
Electric Koolaid 
Ken Queasy 
Neon Sunset 
Queasy Sunrise 
Technicolor Sunrise 
Zipperhead 

Ken Queasy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: T. & D. Swain, 1993
Page Views: 1,203
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 22, 2002
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B. Gibbs on Ken Queasy Jan '07

Description 

Go to the far right side of the Magic Bus Crag. This climb starts some small distance left of the right-hand end, in some dark, chunky rock.

Climb up an awkward start (perhaps 5.9?) and reach the first bolt. Then up and to a second bolt before angling up and left to join Technicolor Sunrise, clipping the final bolt and anchors of that route. The line is note as nice nor as continuous as the others at the cliff, and felt awkward at the bottom.

Like its neighbor, the Swain book suggests that a TCU or small wires will assist at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection - I remember awkwardly trying to place a piece that wasn't great in the end anyway. I'd advise to just boulder it out to the first bolt and would not advise this as a good route for a blooming leader.


Protection 

A light rack of small gear can supplement the 3 bolts on this climb, but not terribly well. Expect a minor runout either way.



Photos of Ken Queasy Slideshow Add Photo
Elaine placing the first piece on Ken Queasy.
Elaine placing the first piece on Ken Queasy.
Magic Bus
BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus
Finishing the crux past the first bolt.
Finishing the crux past the first bolt.
Midday moon; part of Ken Queasy at left
Midday moon; part of Ken Queasy at left
Comments on Ken Queasy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 19, 2007

This was a very fun route and the runout wasn't so bad (but then, I didn't lead it, hee hee). Just wish it was more sustained. My friend's piece was bomb but the first bolt still made for the possibility of a near-groundfall. Clear sailing after that.

By rex parker
From: las vegas n.v
May 21, 2007

i think the potential is bad for not placing the small nut or stopper before the first bolt, because a ground fall could hurt the belayer and you could fall substantially farther because of the cliff to the right of the belay stance, dont run this one out to the first bolt place that piece, cause the rock is kinda sketchy untill the bolt.

By Ron Graham
Jan 21, 2009

Most of the fun on this route is getting past the black varnished section, which is the crux of the climb. My friends and I toproped it and focused just on that section. An anchor has been set up for that purpose, and the anchor can be easily reached with a 6 foot traverse from the anchor for Technicolor Sunrise.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

On 3/3/10, the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced three pro bolts and two anchor bolts with 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts. The anchor has also been equipped with mussy hooks.

Note: This route now has its own anchor (which was in place before we rebolted the crag- this anchor has been upgraded and placed in better rock).

By Josh Cameron
Jan 12, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

You can place a bomber and slightly tight #2 C4 in the first horizontal crack. This will help you to get up to that first bolt, but if you fell clipping it wouldn't keep you off the ground.

Also, the 2nd bolt might be in groundfall territory, but once you pass that first bolt the climbing eases a good amount.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 13, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

If you're short, you'll really want gear in that horizontal before you commit to going for the first bolt, as the crux guards it. I was able to just stand up and clip the bolt at 5'10", no biggie.

The second bolt wouldnt be groundfall with a tight belay, but it'd be close enough to be scary.

Lead safe on this one, folks.