Go to the far right side of the Magic Bus Crag. This climb starts some small distance left of the right-hand end, in some dark, chunky rock.
Climb up an awkward start (perhaps 5.9?) and reach the first bolt. Then up and to a second bolt before angling up and left to join Technicolor Sunrise, clipping the final bolt and anchors of that route. The line is note as nice nor as continuous as the others at the cliff, and felt awkward at the bottom.
Like its neighbor, the Swain book suggests that a TCU or small wires will assist at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection - I remember awkwardly trying to place a piece that wasn't great in the end anyway. I'd advise to just boulder it out to the first bolt and would not advise this as a good route for a blooming leader.
Protection
A light rack of small gear can supplement the 3 bolts on this climb, but not terribly well. Expect a minor runout either way.
This was a very fun route and the runout wasn't so bad (but then, I didn't lead it, hee hee). Just wish it was more sustained. My friend's piece was bomb but the first bolt still made for the possibility of a near-groundfall. Clear sailing after that.
i think the potential is bad for not placing the small nut or stopper before the first bolt, because a ground fall could hurt the belayer and you could fall substantially farther because of the cliff to the right of the belay stance, dont run this one out to the first bolt place that piece, cause the rock is kinda sketchy untill the bolt.
Magic Bus
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