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Magic Bus
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Blonde Dwarf 
Electric Koolaid 
Ken Queasy 
Neon Sunset 
Technicolor Sunrise 
Zipperhead 

Zipperhead 

5.8 R

   

FA: P. VanBetten, N. Nordblom, '88
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 183 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Dec 22, 2002


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BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus


Description 

To find this route first locate Neon Sunset, as described on this site.

From Neon Sunset, walk 3 meters right to a set of thin cracks tending up and right. At the end of the first crack, step right join a second crack system and eventually to a bolt. Continue climbing until the difficulty eases and then choose to go up and left the anchors of Neon Sunset, or up and right to the anchors on Technicolor Sunrise.


Protection 

A light rack of small gear and a few draws for the bolt and fixed anchors up top. The route name probably refers to pulling some of the 'iffy' gear that might be fallen on here.



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Climbers on Neon Sunset (left) and Technicolor Sunrise (right).  Zipperhead starts on the thin crack between these routes.

Climbers on Neon Sunset (left) and Technicolor Sun...


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By L. Hamilton
Mar 21, 2004
rating: 5.8-

Bored with the clip-ups on this crag? Lead Zipperhead, a route from an earlier era, for an experience a little bit different. Place small gear (cams and stoppers) until the first crack ends at about 1/3 height. Then go for a hike, no harder than 5.6 but stay focused, past blind cracks to reach the lone bolt up and right at around 2/3 height (yes, do the math). From the bolt, move up steeper ground to the anchors without clipping other bolts on the sport routes to your left or your right. It's not difficult, but you'll remember this lead when you've forgotten all the others.