This route is the left most of the fully bolted lines at Magic Bus wall. Despite the fact that I generally enjoy trad routes more, I found this to be one of the better lines at the cliff, despite being a little over-bolted. Unlike a few of its neighbors, the line is continuous and straight--aesthetic and nice. Perhaps one of the good reasons to hit this cliff on a winter morning. It's also a good warm up.
Climb up the bolted line passing 9 bolts to the anchor up top. At one time the bolt hangers were red, and still may well be.
I agree the bottom chain links looked like they've lost some diameter, but I'm not sure at what point they should be removed. (climbed 11.08.09) Great climb!
By Casey From: Boulder, CO Apr 12, 2007 rating: 5.7
The Brock and McMillan Guide call this a 5 star classic. I thought it was way overbolted and not that great. A little too much clipping for my liking. Better over than under though, I guess
By gilbert.2003 From: Las Vegas, NV Apr 15, 2007 rating: 5.7+
A bit over bolted but gotta like it when you get it.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO May 19, 2007 rating: 5.8
Fun climb and great warm-up. As this was my first sport lead in RR, I was rather thankful for all the bolts. ;-)
Did this climb last week (Dec. 2007). It provides typical in-cut desert varnish on a near vertical wall. The first holds off the deck aren't fully positive, but the holds above that are sharp. We hadn't climbed in 14 yrs., and probably should have started on an easier top-rope first, but were able to hang-dog up the route on lead thanks to the ample protection. The last links in the anchor chains were beginning to wear a bit.
We wish more climbs in Red Rocks were this well protected. As we climbers age, it seems we don't get off on the bold factor as much any more, and really appreciate the added safety factor climbs like this provide.
wow -- don't think I've been on a route with so many bolts in such a short ascend, I nearly z-clipped a couple times... you definitely feel protected on this route.
really fun, warm up climb. someone new on lead might feel right arm getting a little pumped by half way up. it does seem longer than 45' though, especially if you compare it to Technicolor Sunrise.
last links on anchor are getting worn out -- someone needs to cut those two off and be all set with the remaining anchor links.
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