This route is the left most of the fully bolted lines at Magic Bus wall. Despite the fact that I generally enjoy trad routes more, I found this to be one of the better lines at the cliff, despite being a little over-bolted. Unlike a few of its neighbors, the line is continuous and straight--aesthetic and nice. Perhaps one of the good reasons to hit this cliff on a winter morning. It's also a good warm up.
Climb up the bolted line passing 9 bolts to the anchor up top. At one time the bolt hangers were red, and still may well be.
By Casey From: Boulder, CO Apr 12, 2007 rating: 5.7
The Brock and McMillan Guide call this a 5 star classic. I thought it was way overbolted and not that great. A little too much clipping for my liking. Better over than under though, I guess
By gilbert.2003 From: Las Vegas, NV Apr 15, 2007 rating: 5.7+
A bit over bolted but gotta like it when you get it.
By Bill Olszewski From: San Diego, CA May 19, 2007 rating: 5.8
Fun climb and great warm-up. As this was my first sport lead in RR, I was rather thankful for all the bolts. ;-)
Did this climb last week (Dec. 2007). It provides typical in-cut desert varnish on a near vertical wall. The first holds off the deck aren't fully positive, but the holds above that are sharp. We hadn't climbed in 14 yrs., and probably should have started on an easier top-rope first, but were able to hang-dog up the route on lead thanks to the ample protection. The last links in the anchor chains were beginning to wear a bit.
We wish more climbs in Red Rocks were this well protected. As we climbers age, it seems we don't get off on the bold factor as much any more, and really appreciate the added safety factor climbs like this provide.
Magic Bus
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