This route climbs the obvious crack starting near the left hand edge of the Magic Bus wall. The gear at the bottom might be a little tricky to place, but seemed OK to me. Like it's neighbor, there is nothing really wrong with the route, but it's broken nature (not a singular line) makes it not quite as good as others on the cliff, having rock of less quality and being a little shorter.Climb up the crack up and right to the face, then up and left on the face past two bolts to a fixed rap anchor.
For the record, I think all of the grades in book for the area are 'easy.' For that double-digit end of the scale, perhaps 3 letter grades easier than rated. Single-digit-difficulty routes seem to be over-graded by an average of almost full number. There are of course exceptions and even sandbags, but I am speaking generally.
I don't think it is very S either. I give it PG13 an for tricky gear at the bottom because the gear at the bottom might be a little tricky to place for a newbie.
This didn't feel like a 10 to me. I don't think it warrants a PG-13 rating either. I found the gear to be straightforward and solid throughout the crack section.
I think you guys are right for the most part - seemed pretty easy. But the crux up high was pretty delicate. Maybe a one move wonder? Still, I found the climb to be thoroughly enjoyable.
Magic Bus
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