This route climbs the obvious crack starting near the left hand edge of the Magic Bus wall. The gear at the bottom might be a little tricky to place, but seemed OK to me. Like it's neighbor, there is nothing really wrong with the route, but it's broken nature (not a singular line) makes it not quite as good as others on the cliff, having rock of less quality and being a little shorter.Climb up the crack up and right to the face, then up and left on the face past two bolts to a fixed rap anchor.
For the record, I think all of the grades in book for the area are 'easy.' For that double-digit end of the scale, perhaps 3 letter grades easier than rated. Single-digit-difficulty routes seem to be over-graded by an average of almost full number. There are of course exceptions and even sandbags, but I am speaking generally.
I don't think it is very S either. I give it PG13 an for tricky gear at the bottom because the gear at the bottom might be a little tricky to place for a newbie.
I agree, it is more of a 5.8+ climb. Still, I'll take any of the climbs on the Magic Bus wall.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO May 19, 2007
I think you guys are right for the most part - seemed pretty easy. But the crux up high was pretty delicate. Maybe a one move wonder? Still, I found the climb to be thoroughly enjoyable.
Follow the right leaning crack until it peters out in the dish. Up the dish and to the left to clip two bolts and end at the anchors to the left. The crux is in the dish with a high step on low handholds (shorter climber) with a reach to a very positive hold above. Strenuous at the crack only.
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