BETA PHOTO: The Magic Bus viewed from the Second Pullout parki...
Description
The Magic Bus is a gigantic boulder directly across from the parking lot at the second pullout. The routes range from 5.8 to 5.10-. This is a popular area for people just beginning to lead.
[Reprinted with permission from Jed Botsford, Climbing Ranger - RRCNCA].
Getting There
To approach the Magic Bus, follow the trail from the parking lot until it forks, take the right fork and then take the next left following the trail to the wash. Walk up canyon for about 50 yards. Turn up the second side canyon to your right. Follow the side canyon up until it tops out and then continue up the slabs. When you reach the top of the slabs, the Magic Bus will be to your right.
The day I went to magic Bus was a cold and early winter morning. The sun was on the cliff pretty strongly, and the light and scenery from there were awesome, particularly of the sun shining down on the low clouds and snow hanging in the tall walls across the valley. Remarkably, we had the cliff to ourselves and found it to be a great place to go warm up for our Red Rocks vacation, climbing all of the routes there in just a few hours. It's a good 1/2 day wall.
I believe "Electric Koolaid" has the only correct rating on this face. The rest should be dropped a point. I've been there twice and very much enjoyed it. It's a good place to spend a cold and windy day; it may be crowded though.
Climbed the three sport 5.8s. Not one of which was a true rating. I agree that all three should be dropped to 5.7s. However, they are fun climbs with bomber holds.
Magic Bus
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