A closely bolted, enjoyable climb that heads straight up slabby white rock on pitch one, then into rippling red on the second. The view is great all the way up and the rock itself is a pleasure to climb on. An excellent introduction to multi-pitch climbing for those so inclined.
Location
Located about 150 yards from the parking area, the first pitch is hidden by the fin of rock that forms the east wall of Front Corridor. Use hidden rappel anchors to drop down into the corridor and get to the base of the climb.
Protection
First pitch is 90 feet and has 8 bolts, second pitch is also 90 feet with 10 bolts. Decent belay ledge halfway up with a secure hanging belay at the top.
One of the bolts on the rap station to get to the route has been pulled out. Its an easy scramble in and out! Great route for a first lead since it's well bolted! Great route in general! Thanks Mark!
By Brandt Allen From: Joshua Tree, Cal Sep 30, 2008
There is a bolted route left of Man's Best Friend. Any info on this?
By Paul-Anderson From: Calgary Mar 28, 2009 rating: 5.7
A potentially easier approach which avoids the rappel is to head a bit more right immediately out of the parking lot compared to the photo. There is a huge boulder and if you turn left right after this, you enter a small gully. At the end of gully (probably the third you pass after you exit the parking lot), it is a very easy downclimb and then a short walk to get to the start of the route.
Been a guide here for years never knew about the route. Just got off the route with my son Adam who is 7. His first multi pitch route, just me and my boy just a perfect evening in the red rocks. Why you you rappel the approach? Just walk in with a 10 foot 3rd class move doen the gully from the route.
There are 3 routes left of MBF,all of which start on a ramp about 40' left and 15 up. The 1st is Mollie's Malecone, a trad route up a shallow crack that protects well with aliens and med. camalots, save a small piece for the horizonal 3/4s up. A bolt protects the white slab below the crack. 5:8+ 90' to chains.
The next route left is Riley's Revenge, sport 8 bolts, 5:9 100'to the chains.
Next route left is Paislie Pockets, up the slab to a right facing corner up to the horizonal, traverse right to a left facing corner at the top move right and up to the chains. 5:7+ pg 2 ropes or 1 70 meter for rappel.
Corey Cogley and I put up all of the routes on the face 2-04. We call the the area The Pet Wall. Mark bolted MBF on lead after Cory and I had done it without bolts, not realizing till he reached the chains, a small detail Mark and I laugh about.
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