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Sandy Corridor
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Chrysler Crack 
Ring Leader, The 

Chrysler Crack 

5.9

   

FA: Randal Grandstaff, Jon Martinet, 1970s
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 2,149 page views

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Submitted By: John Hegyes on Nov 16, 2006

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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Chrysler Crack


Description 

Chrysler Crack is a classic off-width romp located high over the Sandstone Quarry with a beautiful splitter crack in a dihedral and two featureless faces. In the first half of the climb you can choose to lieback the crack or employ off-width jamming and in the second half the crack is wide enough to chimney. Walk off left.


Location 

Approach from Sandstone Quarry as per Sandy Corridor description. Hike the Corridor a couple hundred yards until you're about 30 yards from the end of the canyon. You'll see a (mostly dead) left-leaning pine tree. Go right here to a robbers den that pinches off into a narrow slot. Break right and up to ledges, past occasional easy fifth-class moves for about 150 feet until you arrive at the base of the climb.


Protection 

There is no fixed protection on this route. Bring armloads of big cams and big bros - Camalot C4 #5 and Big Bro #3 didn't cut the mustard.



Photos of Chrysler Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Shayne Durfee leading this huge gash, great climb!!!!

Shayne Durfee leading this huge gash, great climb!...

 Is this a high end version of a Dodge? <br />Shayne Durfee leading the chrysler Crack

Is this a high end version of a Dodge?
Shayne Dur...


Russ racking up.  Note the custom 8" wide Hex.

Russ racking up. Note the custom 8" wide Hex.

Russ using a textbook foot stack near the crux

Russ using a textbook foot stack near the crux

Me in the last few feet.  <br />Russ photo.

Me in the last few feet.
Russ photo.



Comments on Chrysler Crack Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Phx J-Tree
Oct 27, 2008

fun fun fun and a must-do for any WideFriday. Clean rock lets you get in and wiggle around with little penalty of abrasions. Did I say Wide? Too wide for my 8.5 shoes. Basically unusable in any sort of a heel toe/foot stack or otherwise. Mystery OW techniques used to ascend upward but that's the fun of it.

If you're planning ahead bring the widest gear you've got and consider making something 9" + perhaps a drilled log with a sling?

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 28, 2008

Fantastic route. Something in the 9" to 12" range would be nice, but not really needed. I would suggest not falling if at all possible.

Additional info: http://widefetish.com/pages/route_beta.html

By marc rosenthal
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 29, 2008

Looks like it would be arm bars and knee smears, although the foot stack is pretty cool.

By smassey
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 19, 2010

Takes gear from a 6 Camalot to a 5 Bro, plus a small wire or two if you want. Unless you want to wedge yourself in the crack and belay, bring a few blue and yellow metolius, maybe a .75 camalot.