Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Stratocaster Area
Show routes:
Select route...
Choad Warrior 
Cut Loose 
Deluxe, The 
Flame Ranger 
Footloose 
Marshall Amp 
One Eyed Jacks 
Pablo Diablo 
Party Down 
Stratocaster Direct 
Tier of Titans 
Titan Rocket 

Stratocaster Direct 

5.12b

   

FA: Dan McQuade
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Season: Any
Views: 729 page views

Submitted By: Matt McMurray on Apr 25, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Matt McMurray crossing-through after the dynamic t...


Description 

The crux consists of a series of difficult crimps at the second bolt, followed by a dynamic move to a huge triangular shaped point. This really seems like a sweet boulder problem that continues up through a series of juggy heucos to the anchors. Be sure you are solid in clipping the third bolt, as there is a potential for a groundfall if your belayer isn't proficient. Most people I've seen climb the route stick-clip the first two bolts for protection. The crux moves earn the grade for the climb, yet after the crux it is more like 5.10 climbing. Word has it that the first ascensionist would do a "superman" dive from the elevated bushes behind the route to the jug rail as an alternative start. Kudos to Dan!! I tried this on toprope. I am 6'2" and could barely make this jump from the bushes. My partner was 5'10" and was unsuccessful. Regardless if you climb this route you should really try it! =)


Location 

This route climbs out from the right side of the Stratocaster cave. There is an obvious belay stance under the first bolt. Be careful of the sticky bushes if you come swinging off the route!


Protection 

Five bolts to some eyebolt anchors.



Add Photo Photos of Stratocaster Direct
Photo by John Tormalehto

Photo by John Tormalehto