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Cut Loose 

5.11a

   

FA: J. SMith, N. Nordbloom, 1988
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Season: any
Views: 357 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Apr 7, 2006


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Working through the crux of Cut Loose....


Description 

Great route on the left end of the Stratocaster area.
Climb the open-book left-facing corner and crack (5.10) for perhaps 15 meters to a roof.
Clip bolts while traversing out right on the steep territory and pull the roof (bolts) to finish up to a fixed anchor.
Lowering off may be hard on your rope, as would the second hang-dogging, so belay a solid partner from the anchors.


Location 

Walking South towards the second pullout from Running Man Wall, this will be in the first major roof system encountered. At the left end of the large roof there is a crack in the corner, an open book that is climbable to the bolted roof and a fixed anchor above.


Protection 

A set of cams from fingers to 3" plus a few draws for the bolts. One or two pieces might be best with a longer sling, including the first of the bolts.



Add Photo Photos of Cut Loose
The corner and right-side roof are the line for 'Cut Loose' (5.11a). Photo by Tony Bubb, 1/03.

BETA PHOTO: The corner and right-side roof are the line for 'C...

"But is it steep?" Chir parks stands on the ground, 10 meters from teh base after rapping from the anchor up top. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1/2003.

"But is it steep?" Chir parks stands on the ground...

My "profile."<br />A self-portrait of sorts from the lip of the roof on 'Cut Loose' (11a) on Stratocaster Wall.  Photo by Tony Bubb, 1/03.

My "profile."
A self-portrait of sorts from the li...


Dave Holliday on Cut Loose on Stratocaster Wall

Dave Holliday on Cut Loose on Stratocaster Wall

Dave on the pumpy traverse of Cut Loose, Stratocaster Wall

Dave on the pumpy traverse of Cut Loose, Stratocas...