Slam Dancin' With The Amish 

FA:  P. & P. VanBetten, 6/89 Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Season:  Not cold days Views: 122 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Apr 7, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This is a pretty good route with a few cruxes. Low down There are some tough laybacks to start, and higher up, getting established above the bolted bulge. Both are 5.9-ish.
Approach the climb via a heady scramble (no gear if roped) and set a belay at the base of a 6" thick right-facing flake. CLimb the flake to a ledge ~8 meters up, then climb on face holds past a few bolts at a featured bulge (crux). Finish the climb on gear and belay up top.

Location 

N-most end of the Sonic Youth Cliff, on the upper tier. This is approached from the N/NE by an insecure scramble that a beginner should be roped for if they are to do it at all (still a nasty swing).
To descend, we came back south quite far and hiked back N. to the base. There may be a shorter way.

Protection 

A few draws for the bolts plus a rack of nuts and cams to 2". The bottom offers a belay stance that can be protected with some extra cams from .5" to 1", which is a good idea.