BETA PHOTO: Advanced Placement goes up the wide crack, then tr...
Description
Climb the corner, passing a wide, hollowed-out section, to a short fist crack at the base of the arching wide crack above. Two 4-inch cams protect the fist crack. When the crack widens, get a good PLACEMENT for your number 6, and ADVANCE it as you work your way to the top of the corner. Some welcome face holds keep this section from turning into the horror-show it appears from below. Eventually, the main crack dead-ends at a steep, loose section. Bypass this by face-climbing left, then up. A fair .75 Camalot gives some protection to the traverse right, back into the main crack system. A hanging belay (on gear) can be set up here if necessary. Immediately above is a short, but steep and strenuous fist crack leading to a comparatively relaxed squeeze chimney and an excellent ledge.
The next pitch is much easier. Climb right and up to a deep, dark chimney with excellent face holds. Climb this and belay in an amphitheater at its top. A fourth class pitch then goes straight left on friction and ledges, passes a large bush, and descends a short ramp to the rappel station at the top of Midnight Oil. A 50-meter rappel leads to the ground.
Location
This route is on the lower, western edge of the Magic Triangle formation. It is probably only 30 feet to the right of Midnight Oil, but intervening brush and boulders make it a longer walk. The route starts up the wide, right-facing crack that is the opposite side of the mega-flake creating Bros Before Holes.
Magic Mountain
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