BETA PHOTO: Red are variations of Birdland. Blue is Tinkerbel...
Description
Pitch 1 (5.8): Climb up the short chimney to the right of Birdland, above pitch 2 of Birdland. You can belay here to ease rope drag. Step down from the top of the chimney to get into a finger crack. Build an anchor to belay at the top of this crack.
Pitch 2 (5.8R): Continue up the crack, as it runs out. Continue straight up the face, getting some small gear in a small alcove, before running it out on the delicate face for about 50 feet. Finish at the bolt anchors for pitch 4 of Birdland.
Descent: Same as Birdland.
Location
This route is a variation to the right of Birdland. Climb the first two pitches of Birdland and then go right up a short chimney (optional belay point) to find the route, instead of going left on the ramp to the bolt. The route ends at the pitch 4 anchors of Birdland.
Protection
Mostly small gear, especially for the second pitch (got a small BD C3 in before the long runout).
If anyone climbed this line before Ryan and I did, please let me know. I emailed Jerry Handren and he was pretty sure this line had not been done before.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jul 17, 2008
I went about half way up this route to retrieve a rope that managed to get snagged on the rap off Birdland. Looked like a nice line.
This line has been climbed on numerous occasions by individuals who are lost on Birdland. Before Birdland was in a guidebook -- but I was guiding it all the time -- I witnessed 10+ ascents of this line.
That's not to say that the name shouldn't stay for the variation.
Are you sure the second pitch has been climbed? I'm sure that people have done the lower crack, but it does not extend all the way to the anchors. Once you start on the second pitch, the gear runs completely out and it is all face climbing straight up to the anchors. The route is also a little further right than it looks in the picture because of the angle of the shot.
It's definitely been done on multiple occasions. People used to really get lost up there. Many only had a weak route description with no picture, so they often ended up out in space to the right.
Brass Wall
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