Birdland 

This route is easily rappelled with a single 70m, and I highly suspect that a single 60m would work as well, but havent attempted it yet.

I don't think a single 60 meter rope will reach from atop pitch 2's anchors down to pitch one's anchors, and if you came up short you'd have to downclimb one of two chimneys.

I'm 95% sure that we rapped straight from the P3 belay to the P1 belay with a single 60, and only had to downclimb a short bit of that easy chimney. It worked very well for us.

This route is great, love the 2nd and 3rd pitches.

There are three variations for the second pitch. The first variation is that which is described. The second is to climb the chimney -- which I think is a lot more fun than the face -- and the third is to climb the arete to the left of the chimney.

I have never climbed the arete. Does anyone know how hard it is?

It is NOT possible to rappel pitch five with a sixty meter rope. Both the first and the second pitch require downclimbing with a single sixty as well.

The sixth pitch is not worth doing.

Lastly, many parties blast up Birdland and ignore the Bighorn handcrack off to the left. The crack pitch of Bighorn is well worth doing while you're up there.

Jason

Oops, Jason you jogged my memory. Above I said we rapped from P3 to P1, but that's obviously not true. I remember lusting after the Big Horn handcrack, but it looked pretty tough from my vantage. How hard is that crack, Jason?

The Bighorn Crack is 5.8.

Jason

What is the correct name of Joe Herbst's route? Is it The Big Horn or The Bighorn? I've seen it written both ways . If I have it wrong in my description, I apologize.

Birdland is a totally fabulous route! One of my favorite routes in RR. Jorge Urioste took our kids on a nature hike so Julia and I could relax and enjoy the climb. I don't know if my ankle-biting rug rats will ever fully appreciate what an honor it was to be tour guided by a legend, but Julia and I still break into perma-grins thinking about that day. THANK YOU Jorge! The finger crack on the fifth pitch is not to be missed! The belay stance is wild. I can only imagine the sphincter puckering that took place when whatever stood atop the triangle ledge cut loose. It is totally clean and scenic now. Jorge told me the fourth pitch while easy was unprotected. Probably because most of the hard cores just 3rd class through it. On the other hand I was able to essentially lace it up with decent gear every fifteen feet or less. Probably because I am anything but hard core. The climbing on every pitch of Birdland is aesthetic and varied. This climb is a real treat for the senses. Be careful running and pulling rap ropes around pitch three.

If you don't have a 70m rope, and you don't want to bring a second rope for the rappels, it is possible to get down with one 60m rope if you don't mind a little minor downclimbing.
(Disclaimer: I didn't climb the sixth pitch but the Brock/McMillen book says it's only 80 feet long so a 60m would be more than adequate if that's true.)
Anyhow, here's how we did it from the anchor at the top of pitch five:
From P5 anchor I rapped straight down the face towards the P4 anchor. When I reached the knots I'd tied in the rope ends I was just a couple feet above the P4 anchor bolts. I easily reached down and clipped myself straight in to one of the bolts. I then took myself off rappel and stepped down to the P4 belay stance.
From P4 anchor to P3 anchor the rope reached easily.
From P3 anchor to the large ledge with the P2 anchor the rope again reached easily.
From the P2 anchor I rapped down and into the chimney that is the start of the second pitch of The Big Horn route. I took myself off rappel about ten feet shy of the large P1 belay ledge. From there it was an easy, unexposed downclimb to the ledge.
From the anchors atop P2 I rapped straight down towards the base of the climb. Again I had to take myself off rappel about ten feet shy of the ground, but once again it was an easy, unexposed downclimb to reach the ground.
(Reminder: Don't forget to tie stopper knots in the rope ends before each rappel!)

Route may be safely rappelled with a 70m rope. You can also rap the route with a single 60m rope, but you will need to do a bit of down-climbing (or reaching out to clip into anchor bolts from the bottom of the rope) on a couple pitches...I don't recommend this for inexperienced climbers. If you do rap the route with a 60m rope, MAKE SURE TO TIE STOPPER KNOTS in the end of the rope!

I would call this a Grade III (not II) route.

Regarding the Bighorn pitch on the left: This is a great pitch with big moves and good pro. However, above the pitch is one of the worst anchor stations I have ever seen. There is a two/three bolt set up with a hanger on one side and no hanger on the other. Due to the location of the hanger and the nearest natural pro, it is better to set pro in the rock than use the anchor, since it is hard to equalize. If anyone knows if this anchor has been improved, please update.

The beta in the new fat red guidebook is a little off, I think, on P4. It says to look for a right-facing corner by a roof, where I think most climbers would refer to that feature as a crack (by a roof).

There is an obvious anchor with slings almost directly above the P3 belay. This is not the Birdland anchor, so stay right as per route description. The P4 anchor isn't visible until you're over a bulge and almost to it.

Very catchy route for rapping.

My vegas sugar momma and I just climbed this yesterday. It was her third day of climbing ever...props sista.

This route is fantastic, if anyone tells you otherwise, they haven't climbed enuff.

I give it honest 5.8, go ahead, tell me how light I am.

Bighorn should really be considered a Red Rock 5.9. Good pro, but a bit thin to qualify for a 5.8. Cheers, Karl Wilcox

Climbed this route last week with Joe Chorny. We only had the Swain book (which doesn't have Birdland) so had to use this website to get info on the route. The pictures and description here allowed us to find the base of the route but honestly the info on the 4th and 5th pitches is misleading and could use improvement.

From the top of the third pitch the route moves more than slightly right - it is more like 20-30 feet right. Look up and right for black varnished face holds. Slightly up and right from the belay peters out into unprotectable face climbing on less than inspiring white/orange rock. The P4 belay can not be seen until about 15 feet from it. There was very little chalk on this pitch to give hint of being on route. A good amount of gear can be had on this pitch.

On pitch 5 do not go up and left. From that belay one can see white slings on an anchor about 30-40 feet left (mentioned in previous post here). This anchor is for a new route and not Birdland. It turns out the FA person on that route (Karl Wilcox) was there that day and told us where to go on Birdland's 5th pitch. From the belay look up and right 60 feet or more for a light brown 2-3 ft roof (about 20-30 feet to the right of the belay). Birdland goes just left of the edge of that roof and the nice crack is above that and out of sight.

Overall the route was pretty good - we'd give it 2-2.5 stars. For grade 7+ is reasonable. There felt like there were a couple of 8 moves on the route - one on the third pitch past the bolt and the last move on pitch 5 but the rest was 6 or 7.

James,
Thanks for your beta. I will be sure to update the info. for pitch 4 and 5, but will first try to consult with Mark Limage (FA of Birdland) in order to be as accurate as we can.
Or... if one more climber, familiar with Birdland can attest to your beta, I'll change it right away.
My poor partner led pitch 4, and I know he (and probably others) would have liked more pro opportunities on that pitch, such as beta that you have described.
Interesting about new routes by Birdland; you sneaky climbers, you!!
And Silly James...there's no "8" moves on this climb,.....(:])

Hello Gigette,
I would agree that both pitch 4 and pitch 5 involve significant movement to the right. Of the two, pitch 4 traverses the furthest right. If you were to drop plumb bobs from the start and end points of pitch 4 it would easily be 25 feet or more. I have led that pitch twice and have found sufficient good gear to feel fairly at ease. It is an up and over route and gear finding adventure. Yes there are spans of no pro but by tying together discontinuous cracks with tricams, wired stoppers and long slings(perhaps double ropes to reduce drag)it is a safe pitch. I really think it is a great pitch if you are looking around with an open eye. Pitch 5 does start out going up and right to the "cool" crack in the roof and the abondanza above.
And I personally would endorse an overall 5.8 rating for the route.
As a side comment to all, rap how you will but know how to handle a stuck rope. This climb has a practical joker's sense about its ability to catch ropes. This route is popular so use caution when yanking stuck ropes off of flakes.

Thanks Phil and James!
At the time my partner and I climbed route, we had little information on pitches 3-6. Neither of us had done Birdland before. We were actually planning on climbing 'Big Horn' that day, but was not looking forward to the sustained nature of that beautiful "old school" Joe Herbst route.
Re: Birdland..pitches 4 and 5, we took a fairly direct line (only traversed slightly right on pitch 4, and on pitch 5, I did end up right at the fun, beautiful fingercrack section. Looks like there are more pro opportunities per your beta of Birdland's pitch 4 and 5.
I'll have to climb route again, using your beta to see if I'll still award it 4 stars, as there is quite a bit of traversing and more of a wandery nature to Birdland's upper pitches(4 and 5)than what my partner and I did.

Thanks for updating the description Gigi - this should help future parties on the route. I guess since you can call me "silly" I can call you "Gigi"?

You got me all excited to do Birdland again, but Big Horn is next on my list if I'm up that way.
I was able to do the first two pitches of Big Horn,after work with Jonny, which was long after I had done B.L.(B.T.W.,That's when Jonny took that "Gigi" photo of me above on first pitch).I did Birdland with another partner of mine. Since my nickname is out in the open now, you can proceed to call me Gigi, silly James.

P.S. Big Horn does look thin and 5.9ish, as Karl mentioned above, but that's an old school Joe Herbst route for ya! If anyone has done Big Horn, can you write up a description on it?

Rather than replace the old description of the top pitches, I'd prefer that it remain described as a variation. Or maybe add it as a separate route "Birdland Variation". It's nice to know what all the options are.

George

The route info Phil and I provided is the true route for Birdland and as such should be reflected in the main description. When the new route is completed to the left (at 5.7+ so says Karl the FA person) then it can be described as a variation.

Gigi - on the main description at some point it should be consolidated and mention of lowly me can be removed. It is not like I'm an authority on RR. Perhaps after you climb Birdland again you can update the description as you see fit.

Sounds good James about consolidating later on (after I climb it again, and after Karl's new route listed for variation to B.L.).
P.S. You're not silly anymore.

An ultra-classic route that will become extremely popular once word gets out. Climb it now before the crowds arrive!

There is a well-cairned trail all the way up to the route. At the end, sneak left under a big chockstone next to the wall to get to a spacious ledge system below the climb. The landmark for the route is the scrub oak on a ledge about 110' up, and a crack with lots of face holds that goes straight up to the right side of the tree.

I thought the first pitch was very easy; it felt more like 5.4 or 5.5 with all the face holds around the crack.

The anchor atop the second pitch is a knotted sling and quick link attached to two offset bolts. The equalization on this anchor isn't perfect for rappelling; it needs to be fixed. Another quick link (or rap rings) should be added. Even better, put chains on the bolts.

The revised route description is spot on; we had no trouble staying on route on the 4th and 5th pitches. Ample chalk marks the way. The crux of the climb is the last move to the belay on the fifth pitch: thin cracks and a smooth varnished face (5.7+ to 5.8). The rest of the climb is enjoyable 5.5 to 5.7. We didn't do the sixth pitch.

A 70m rope is the way to go, with fewer rappelling hassles than two ropes. Be careful pulling the rope from the anchor atop the second pitch to avoid getting the rope hung up in the chimney.

P2 rap anchor discussion moved to Birdland P2 Rappel Anchor.

A better description for the approach would be to disregard the standard approach for Brass Wall. Instead, continue on the main trail and after you have passed Brass Wall "Left", and started the switchbacking for Darkshadows area, look for a couple of huge, light colored boulders with darker spots all over them. Near those boulders look for a trail off to the right and follow the cairns.

My partner and I got rained off just as I was 15' out on the 4th pitch lead, so we didn't get to finish the route. However, the first 3 pitches are well worth climbing again and I will go back next time out and finish it. The Bighorn crack pitch looks super and hope to get on that as well.

On the 3rd pitch, the traverse to and past the bolt sews up great with small aliens. I remember a perfect blue alien placement under a solid flake to get past the bad "splat" swing potential before clipping the bolt. You should probably be solid at 5.8 leading on this pitch, have a strong lead head, or just don't look back before clipping the bolt if you can't sew it up.

Be careful on the rope eating rappels. Had to re-climb and down climb half of pitch 2 because of stuck rope on rappel.

great route... lot of fun, fight for p. 5!!! get there early to beat the crowds... the route is getting very popular!

Just a suggestion to anyone who finds that they can't get on Birdland due to crowding (and the crowding can get quite heavy) Rawlpindi is a nice alternative, and it is not really a variation to Birdland as it follows an independent line to the left. The climbing is similar, but protecting the 4th pitch takes a bit of ingenuity with placing cams in pods and pockets between the bolts. Someone may want to put some lap links on the rap anchors on Rawlpindi, as I placed the current grey slings about 9 months ago--

what an absolutly fun as hell route!!!...

no hard moves what so ever, but a few moves requiring a little thought...

Pitch three is blast!!!...

Just to confirm what others have said, a single 60 meter rope is fine for this route. The only difficulties are stretching the first rap down to the top of pitch 4 and down-climbing the last ten feet to the top of pitch 2. Neither situation is serious enough to justify a second rope.
A great route; every pitch is excellent!

no doubt this was a fun day.if you are even considering doing cat in the hat, blow it off and take a ride up birdland way more fun. my friend and i headed up today and heard a traffic jam up at cat and the hat while we were chillin at a nice pace with nobody else above or below us.great moderate climb.

Just back from Red Rocks and a run up the "Bird". Beautiful route! In anticipation of the expected rope stretching 60 meter rap off the last pitch, I did the following: Tied a corda-lette to the anchors at the top of pitch 4, then I led up about 10 ft. and used a nut to "fix" the corda-lette to the bottom of the pitch 5 finger crack. Then on the rap, I simply reached over, clipped into the corda-lette, ran the rap knots right up against my rap device (use beefy knots and a biner through them). Still had to go inverted to reach the bolts though!!! Climbing down the 3 moves to the bolts is easy too. Bottom line is go with the 60 meter rope if that's what you have!!! Follow Bill's advice on the approach, worked well for us.

Fun Climb, the crack on the third pitch, and final crack on pitch 5 are the highlights of the climb. Just enough to keep you interested. Very easy approach for RR. Just another great RR 5.7

My partner and I rapped this with a single 60 m and it was no problem (we took the Michael Allen comments as good to go, and they were!). If you can lead this climb, you can easily downclimb the two short sections of 5.4/5.5 on the last two raps; they both are only about 7-10 feet of secure and easy moves. I don't see the point in hauling a second rope for this route.

This route was very good; my only wish is that there had been more sustained climbing at the upper end of the grade on most of the pitches.

I was a little disappointed after all the fanfare this route gets. Still, a nice route in a really cool place with some great moves for a 5.7. Even though I know everything on this route has been yarded on I felt the route still had that fragile feeling (I won't be soloing it anytime soon).

If your squeemish there is one "close call" rappel if your using a 60m up high but I found the other belays to be quite easy to navigate a downclimb.

Oh, and be sure and get your own copy of the guidebook photo on the second to last pitch fingercrack.

Birdland is becoming more and more popular. On nice days you are likely to have company. You can avoid rapping down onto parties climbing P4 and P5 below you by continuing past the P5 anchor to the nearby anchor at the top of Rawlpindi. Instead of stopping on the small slanted shelf on Birdland's P5 anchor, continue up and left about 40 feet to the Rawlpindi 2-bolt anchor (after checking to be sure no one is coming up Rawlpindi) and belay your follower at the Rawlpindi anchor. It's a one rope rappel to the next 2-bolt anchor below on Rawlpindi. Then use two ropes to rappel down to the anchor on the little ledge at the top of Birdland's P3.

marc rosenthal - vegastradguy and I replaced the Big Horn anchor this February (2008).