This is a great route, but would not be fun in the sun. The black varnish we love as edges makes for a slick glass like surface devoid of friction or significant features in places. Still, the moves are stellar and the climb nice, long, and sustained. I had a blast on this route.
Be warned in advance, due to lack of friction and features, the grade of this climb is quite height dependent. A 5'10" climber with ape-like arms (me) or a 6'0" man will find the grade about right. It will be a little easier for the very tall and could be much harder for the very short.
Approach the Brass Wall and mark up the twin splitters on the left end, 'Topless Twins' and then look slightly left to a peerless dark face, cut by a thin crack and offset. This crack leads up 100' to a huge round hueco, and is none other than Mushroom People.
Climb up the route, placing a few pieces for a low 5.9 crux, then continue up and onward to a reachy crux at a slight offset with slippery feet. Past the crux continue up and left again with good holds, good rest and good gear to a fixed anchor.
Rap 95' to the ground on a 60M rope. 2 ropes are not necessary as per the Swain guidebook if you have a 60M.
Protection
A healthy set of stoppers including brass, plus cams from small to 3". Tricams optional. A 60M rope just makes the rap with a meter or two to spare.
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Dec 16, 2005 rating: 5.10c PG13
The 'R' comes from the potential ground fall right off the deck. Although you can get one piece in right away, your next one doesn't come for long enough to be worrisome if you're new to the 5.10 grade. That said, the climb, while long, is not that sustained- in the .8/.9 range for most of it, with the start being low .10 and the crux itself being one move of .10, maybe .10+.
This is the first .10+ in RR that i've done that i would say isn't classic- but even saying that, it's still pretty good!
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 26, 2006 rating: 5.10+
beautifull bullet hard varnish. definately a one move wonder. might be a little heady if your not comfy at this grade.
So good! Protects really well too, there's a blue alien down low for the first mantely move and bomber nuts and micros at the crux. Forget about trying to blindly fidget something in at the crux... You gotta love the complete absence of friction on the face and the squeaky sound of the rubber on that varnish!
a nice line that i just wanted to climb when i saw it. i'm only 5'8" and thought it was no harder than hard 10. was also pretty comfortable with the gear i had. cool moves at the crux, definitely worth doing.
Brass Wall
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