BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch 1. Pass roof on the right go past...
Description
We did only three pitches so feel free to add on. All three pitches we're very long. I would recommend a 70 m rope for leading. If you use a 60 you will need every inch to reach the belays especially on pitch 2 and 3. Pitch 2 is quite good and protects well enough. Pitch 3 wanders up a beautiful black varnish face. Protection not obvious. Had to sling some horns for lack of anything else. Super long pitch. Take 2 ropes to rappel all stations are bolted.
Location
Pine Creek Canyon 100 ft. right of Dark Shadows. Begin on a large ledge.
Protection
Standard rack to a # 3 Camelot. Placed many wired nuts. Bring many runners for long pitches.
By marc rosenthal From: Las Vegas, NV Nov 19, 2007 rating: 5.8
I would disagree with the 5.9 rating. Although pitches are long, there is adequate pro and hardest moves on the climb are 5.8, unless you are off route. Traversing right from the top of pitch 1 there is an easy ledge system that angles right. Follow this straight up to the top of pitch 2. If you don't go far enough to the right, the moves are closer to 5.9-5.10. Pitch 3 is the money pitch. The route supposedly goes on for two or more pitches per the FA leader.
It is possible to do another pitch or two going left from the top of pitch 3, but there are no bolted stations above.
Beware on the descent; ropes seem to catch on this route. Suggested tie off for two ropes EDK, which allows the knot to ride up.
By Brandt Allen From: Joshua Tree, Cal Apr 20, 2009
There's a lot of good climbing on this route; Pitches 2 and 3 are outstanding. A 70 meter rope is not necessary. Pitch 2 uses all of a 60 meter and pitch 3 all but about 5 ft. All the other pitches are shorter. Careful pro placements and long slings will allow a 60 meter rope to make it and will also help minimize rope drag. Pro on pitch 3 was adequate at the crux, a short steep section fairly rated at 5.9.
A question for those who have climbed the fifth pitch - The guide book says: Face climb right, past a bolt, to a trough/crack which is followed past a roof to an anchor at the base of a rounded white rib. We went out right from the belay at the top of pitch 4 but never saw a bolt, or a trough/crack. There was a crack through a roof (more of a bulge), but no rounded white rib and no anchor to be found.
The rest of the route description (Handren Guide) was right on. Can anyone help us solve this mystery?
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