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American Ninja 
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Out of Control 
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American Ninja 

5.11a

   
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FA: Paul Van Betten, Robert Finlay 1986
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 366 page views

Submitted By: Bill Bones on Nov 5, 2007


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Shayne Durfee Right in the middle of the business


Description 

Above the middle terrace is an obvious clean cut red corner with a thin crack. Scramble up 50 feet to belay at the base of the corner. Climb the corner. Rap anchor at the top. Thin moves and thin protection but great climbing


Protection 

up to #2 at the top RPs and other smaller stoppers



Photos of American Ninja Slideshow Add Photo
Shayne Durfee in the stem crux

Shayne Durfee in the stem crux

Keith Phelps on the stem attack

Keith Phelps on the stem attack


Comments on American Ninja Add Comment
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By Bill Bones
From: Somwheres in ooohtaaa
Nov 5, 2007

I though this route was a solid 11a, though the book gives it a 10c. Thin moves with amazing stem/friction moves in the crux. bring some small cams and stoppers. We placed a #2 in a pocket down low and also another #2 at the top after the crux. Great route. I gave this route 4 stars because it was a challenge in every aspect, Gear, Climbing, and setting.

By Coz Teplitz
From: Somerville, MA
Jan 22, 2008

I thought the climbing was fun, but this route is really all about 1 move. A star or two, but nowhere near as good as Out of Control.