Mescalito - South Face 

FA:  FRA: Karsten Duncan, Andrew Gomoll, Larry DeAngelo New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III Views: 217 page views Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Oct 15, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The lower part of the South Face route.

Description 

This is a surprisingly good route up the left side of the south face of the Mescalito Tower. Despite being on a south-facing wall, this route is not a great choice for very cold weather, as it gets a lot of shade from Juniper Peak in the winter.

p1. Easy cracks lead up to a belay in an alcove.
p2. Move left to cracks that lead back right above the big overhang.
p3. An easy chimney leads up and right. Exit left to a ledge with a bush.
p4. Climb up and left, over two ribs, to a right-leaning ramp.
p5. At the top of the ramp, balance up and go a long way left. Climb a varnished offwidth to a belay near a tree.
p6. Easy rock leads up and left to a large ledge.
p7. A few friction moves lead to a steep, right-facing corner.
p8. Climb the easier face to a belay beneath a long, right-leaning ramp.
p9. Follow the ramp to the top.

Location 

Walk upstream from the Cat in the Hat area for a few hundred yards, passing beneath a weirdly eroded wall with an ominous, dirty chimney. Continue to the area where the canyon branches and start below a cave-like overhang.

Protection 

Standard rack

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BETA PHOTO: The upper part of the South Face route.