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Parental Guidance 

5.10 R

   

FA: Mike Tupper & Greg Mayer - 1988
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 519 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on May 10, 2007


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P1 of Parental Guidance...


Description 

Parental Guidance is one of the best single pitches I've done at Red Rocks. It takes a wandering path through a low roof and up a steep face to an extremely steep "Wheat Thin" style flake up the headwall. A final, wild step-across move accesses the anchor atop the first pitch of Lethal Weapon.

Begin the climb on the left side of the Dark Shadows wall about 40 feet right of the huge right-facing corner, atop a small pillar and below a low roof. 5.10 moves, protected by a green Alien in suspect rock, lead up to the low roof and a bolt just over the lip. Stick clipping this bolt might be the better part of valor. Once over the roof continue up steep, thin climbing past three more bolts to a good rest ledge and good natural pro. Step up and left into the crack system which quickly turns into a flake. Halfway up this clip a final bolt (the flake is easily protectable but very fragile and a fall onto gear could conceivably rip it form the wall) and punch it high on the flake until exiting left via providential face holds.

This climb is well-named.


Protection 

Draws and a bunch of small cams (nothing bigger than a 0.75 Camalot). Wires, no brass needed. One rope gets you down.

The suspect hardware on this climb was replaced by the ASCA in May, 2007. Previously this climb was equipped with Petzl self-drills which are only 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch long!