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Out of Control 

5.10c

   

FA: Randal Grandstaff, Dave Anderson 1978
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 130 feet
Views: 1,154 page views

Submitted By: AJ on Nov 19, 2006


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Shayne Durfee leading the Crux


Description 

This is a very enjoyable pitch. Great rock, aesthetic jamming, and nice rests to take in the view.

The crack is mostly splitter finger/thin hand jams. At the top there's a short widening crack which leads up into an A-frame roof. You need some larger gear here (#3.5 – 4 Camalot) but don’t have to do any real OW moves. Cool moves lead to a nice belay ledge with rap chains, just above the roof.


Protection 

standard rack to 4". A couple extra .5 - 1" pieces are useful.



Photos of Out of Control Slideshow Add Photo
Shayne Durfee pulling the roof

Shayne Durfee pulling the roof


Comments on Out of Control Add Comment
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By Aaron S
From: Vegas
Dec 16, 2006

Fwiw, the route is not 160'. I was able to rap it with a 70m with room to spare.

By John Wilder
Dec 23, 2006
rating: 5.10c

glad i didnt read this before going out...would have blown the onsight.

great climb- we thought a 70m would work, that would have been nice to know!

By Bill Bones
From: Somwheres in ooohtaaa
Nov 5, 2007

This route is only 130 feet tall. A 70 meter will work. Great route. Had a blast on it. 10 c seems to sound about right.

By Manjushri
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2009

I climbed this a few years ago and went to it again on 1/31/09. When I stepped left and up into the second crack system, the chockstone that creates it moved significantly. I'm not sure if this was the case when I last climbed it, however, there was a hairline fracture in the stone that looked fairly new. Just a word of caution - the chock stone is jammed in there pretty good and will likely not come out, but when I hand jammed the crack it shifted. Any gear placed around it will run the chance of shifting as well and possibly pulling.

By Chris S
Oct 1, 2009

An excellent route! Its amazing that a photo of it didn't make it into Handren's guide.

But the recommended rack ("standard rack up to 4 inches, extra .5-1 inch useful") works only if a standard rack is doubles of everything! Which is what I recommend for this route: NO stoppers, doubles of cams from 0.4-3", triple 0.5-1", and single 4" cam. 2-4 quickdraws and 1-2 shoulder length slings to extend pro in the o.w. and roof. Then send!