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Too Many Tantrums 

5.7

   

FA: Francis Baker and Rex Parker on Labor Day '06
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 200 feet
Season: almost any
Views: 526 page views

Submitted By: Francis Baker (fran) on Sep 7, 2006


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Me building an anchor in the cleft. I didn't pick ...


Description 

The crack system 10' left of Splitting Hares. There are several options that will get you to a cleft about 75' off the ground. Build a belay in the cleft. Follow the crack system up to the roof. I did not pull the roof but stayed just below it and traversed right on the horizontals. This kept all the climbing at 5.7. Rappel with two ropes from top of Next Century.


Location 

On the NE side of Mescalito between Y2K and Next Century.


Protection 

A standard trad rack.



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By Francis Baker (fran)
From: Las Vegas,NV
Nov 7, 2008

I just went back and did this route for the second time. Some things to mention.
1 I started as per "Splitting Hares" in the corner and went left over the bush,on pockets and cracks, to the cleft 5.8.
2 My partner led the second pitch and belayed on the ledge 75' 5.7
3 I led a third pitch up to the roof and right to the anchor. 5.7+
4 We cleaned a shoe box sized rock and a party on the route after us broke off a few small holds...wear a helmet!