BETA PHOTO: This is a file photo of the wall. We did clean som...
Description
This route follows a crack system for its entire length. The first pitch starts in a dihedral and finishes on classic red rock varnish face climbing, after passing a small roof. 85' 5.7. Build an anchor in the crack on a ledge just below and left of "Next Century" P1 bolts.
The second pitch starts with a nice white flake and then follows the weakness up to a roof via corner, crack, and face climbing. Surmount the roof and build a belay (opt. 1). Then work right (west) about 15' to the anchors for "Next Century". It would be possible to pull the roof and then traverse directly right to the anchors (opt. 2) and belay. 130' 5.9
Rappel "Next Century" with two ropes.
Location
This line is 10' left (east) of "Next Century". Start in a dark dihedral with flakes capped by a white roof. The white flake starting pitch 2 is very visible from the base.
Protection
A standard rack with doubles up to 2" for the long second pitch. Pitch 1 is a trad anchor.
By John Hegyes From: Las Vegas, NV Sep 5, 2006 rating: 5.8
Fran, nice job on this route, it is really good. It's also a good way to reach the top of The Next Century from which you can top-rope the 5.10b/c second pitch - that was real fun, too.
We rappelled from the top of pitch 2 with two 60m ropes. The ropes won't reach the ground unless you aim some distance to the climber's right (west). In which case you can get down with a single rappel.
Mescalito
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