BETA PHOTO: This is a file photo of the wall. We did clean som...
Description
This route follows a crack system for its entire length. The first pitch starts in a dihedral and finishes on classic red rock varnish face climbing, after passing a small roof. 85' 5.7. Build an anchor in the crack on a ledge just below and left of "Next Century" P1 bolts.
The second pitch starts with a nice white flake and then follows the weakness up to a roof via corner, crack, and face climbing. Surmount the roof and build a belay (opt. 1). Then work right (west) about 15' to the anchors for "Next Century". It would be possible to pull the roof and then traverse directly right to the anchors (opt. 2) and belay. 130' 5.9
Rappel "Next Century" with two ropes.
Location
This line is 10' left (east) of "Next Century". Start in a dark dihedral with flakes capped by a white roof. The white flake starting pitch 2 is very visible from the base.
Protection
A standard rack with doubles up to 2" for the long second pitch. Pitch 1 is a trad anchor.
By John Hegyes From: Las Vegas, NV Sep 5, 2006 rating: 5.8
Fran, nice job on this route, it is really good. It's also a good way to reach the top of The Next Century from which you can top-rope the 5.10b/c second pitch - that was real fun, too.
We rappelled from the top of pitch 2 with two 60m ropes. The ropes won't reach the ground unless you aim some distance to the climber's right (west). In which case you can get down with a single rappel.
I climbed this route with Fran today and it was far better than expected. The bottom of the first pitch is a bit dirty, but after you're through that, it's quite fun climbing!
We broke the route up into three pitches and rapped off the bolts at the top of the second pitch of the Next Century. We were able to reach the ground with one double rope rappel.
About half way up the second pitch there was a fixed anchor which could be used to descend as well.
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