this route is 5.9+ in the book, but you need to be a .10ish leader to get on it because the crux is a no-fall situation- blow it and you're decking no matter how much gear you put in....but it is still only .9+....not quite .10a!
I just copied the rating out of the guidebook (Roxanna's). And I agree, you ought to be solid at the grade (whatever it is) to hop on this one. Last summer's fire has done away with the shrub that would have broken your fall.
Not "R". You can get a good finger sized cam at the left end of the rooflet that would keep you off the deck if you blow the stem. Four feet farther out the mini roof takes a good hand sized piece, after that the route is basically over. If you're short, stretch out for this one...the crux stem is a bit wide. Watch out for ticks from the tree/shrub at the belay.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Feb 14, 2007 rating: 5.9
I saw no danger at all. You can sew the roof thing up and then it is over. Neat route for about 12 feet. Rap out of the tree at the top.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Mar 6, 2007
Agreed, no "R" on this route as the entire thing protects easily. Bring .75-2". Fun opening moves!!
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Nov 25, 2007 rating: 5.10a PG13
Really enjoyable route. (Darn it, it's too short!) The opening moves up past the first little roof are super fun and protect well. I think the R rating comes in at the top for the last 12 feet where it's easy climbing but offers no protection.