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Bush Pilots 

5.10a R

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 277 page views

Submitted By: Chris Burton on Jan 14, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Ryan Moran on Bush Pilots just after the crux


Description 

Fun route that's a little burly at the start.


Protection 

Standard rack to 2". The anchor consists of a bunch of slings around a tree on a ledge at the top. The slings have two rap rings on them.



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Chris Trudeau post crux

Chris Trudeau post crux


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By rockratrei
Jan 16, 2006
rating: 5.8+

Original route rated 5.8+

By vegastradguy
From: Henderson, NV
Jan 16, 2006

this route is 5.9+ in the book, but you need to be a .10ish leader to get on it because the crux is a no-fall situation- blow it and you're decking no matter how much gear you put in....but it is still only .9+....not quite .10a!

good fun, though.

By Chris Burton
Jan 17, 2006
rating: 5.10a

I just copied the rating out of the guidebook (Roxanna's). And I agree, you ought to be solid at the grade (whatever it is) to hop on this one. Last summer's fire has done away with the shrub that would have broken your fall.

By Will S
Feb 14, 2007

Not "R". You can get a good finger sized cam at the left end of the rooflet that would keep you off the deck if you blow the stem. Four feet farther out the mini roof takes a good hand sized piece, after that the route is basically over. If you're short, stretch out for this one...the crux stem is a bit wide. Watch out for ticks from the tree/shrub at the belay.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.9

I saw no danger at all. You can sew the roof thing up and then it is over. Neat route for about 12 feet. Rap out of the tree at the top.

By susan peplow
From: what day is this?
Mar 6, 2007

Agreed, no "R" on this route as the entire thing protects easily. Bring .75-2". Fun opening moves!!

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 25, 2007
rating: 5.10a PG13

Really enjoyable route. (Darn it, it's too short!) The opening moves up past the first little roof are super fun and protect well. I think the R rating comes in at the top for the last 12 feet where it's easy climbing but offers no protection.