The Next Century is on the northern end of the east face of the Mescalito in Pine Creek, to the right of Y2K. The first pitch is 5.8, is surprisingly fun and short, and ends at a bolted anchor. The second pitch is a nice long 5.10 with a few bolts, 3 I believe. The face climbing is sustained on beautiful chocolate sandstone and the pitch is not recommended for the faint of heart. The pitch ends at another bolted anchor. Tom Moulin and I simul-rapped off of 8 m lines and, with rope stretch, reached the ground with 2-3 feet to spare. Recommended.
Protection
A few bolts, 3, I think. The rest was smaller gear with a few nuts. I don't think I placed anything larger than a #1 cam on the second pitch. Maybe some larger gear for the first pitch.
An excelent route. The first pitch is better than it appears. Start on the left side of the chimney, move up a few feet and then left into the crack system. The rest of P1 is obvious. Alone it is a good pitch and a 60m will get you down. The p2 is what this route is all about. I thought it was a face climb!? Two 60m ropes with one rappel down the west side to decend.
re: route description. P2 has four bolts, not three. given the thin pro on the route, if you want to load up the huecos with cams, you could fit pieces a lot bigger than #1. or if you're a bad-ass you can stick with the light rack. im not a bad-ass..
one thing the route has going for it is the rock is bomber. really high quality. makes the occasional move high over pro feel a lot better, i figure.
two folks i asked mentioned 10d for P2. i have no opinion myself.
By J. Thompson From: denver, co May 4, 2005 rating: 5.10b
Rack for pitch 2...one set of small to medium nuts, 2 blue aliens, 2 red alien2. You might find a spot for something bigger in a heuco, but you don't need it.'d say about 5.10b/c
really good line...my partner made the second pitch look easy. I'd say the slab is .10d, but my experience on .10d slabs is limited. I was able to do it, though...so maybe .10c, who knows?
Anyway, with two ropes, you can do a single rap to a ledge just right of the route and walk off from there. We pulled the ropes enough to reach the base, then pulled from there...less worry about snags.
thanks for making me sound kick ass vegastradguy. the reality is that this is a sweet route and the pro is fine. (pg at the most) definatly 10d with spectacular delicate moves. bring an array of gear from brass to #3 cam and you're psyched.
The red Brock guide lists the second pitch as 100' however our 70m rope came up just a foot or two short of the 1st pitch anchors. Close enough to clip with a sling but two 60m's would be a better idea. I was happy to have a set of camalots to #3.
Mescalito
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