This is a possible second pitch to Straight Shooter. It begins by traversing 20' left from the SS anchor to a vertical seam with a bolt.
The reachy start is the crux but the climb is steep and engaging throughout. It's 60' long, with a 3 bolt anchor (2 old, 1 new).
This is harder than Mushroom People and a more technical lead. I thought the rock quality wasn't that great, but the immaculate first pitch may have clouded my judgment. An OK climb, but there are many better ones nearby.
Sandbagged, technical, reachy and a poor landing if you rip at the top of the crux. There is a bolt at your feet going into the crux, but it won't keep you from nailing the sloping ledge if you come off...so get something else in before you commit.
Rotten. Sketch gear; my bro led it and fell for the first time on brass. It held, but just nasty rock, climbing was inaesthetic, not really sure what value this one has other than a funny story for Paul.
I climbed this route as a second pitch to Straight Shooter. Contrary to other comments here, I found it not too difficult to protect with two very small stoppers (I think I used a #2 and #3) - I had to, as I fell _alot_. I couldn't get even my finger tips into the super-thin crack, so I lay-backed it off one side of the crack and then tried to reach high for a finger-lock where the crack opens wide enough. However, I'm short and the right foothold is very tiny - almost a smear. I couldn't get a good finger-lock, but thats possibly because I put in a stopper (like a #6 maybe) in that position that interfered. So the protection went ok - it was the climbing I couldn't do right! Yeah, I'm ashamed to admit it, but finally I just had to pull on pro and aid this part of the route. I'd appreciate beta on how one is supposed to climb the start of this. It felt alot harder than the 10d (or 11a) I see it rated at - surely I was just using poor technique. So, yeah, beta requested.
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