This route starts way on the left side of the base section of the Magic Triangle formation. Two pitches of crack climbing lead to a broken, 4th class area at mid-height. Go right, connecting the ledge systems with an interesting climb across a chasm. The long traverse brings you to cracks on the right side of the upper triangle. The next pitch goes up to a horizontal break. Then move left to a spot where you can climb over the overhang (5.9) and continue to a belay near the right edge of the wall. The crux pitch goes up past some soft rock to a smooth traverse left (limited pro) to reach a thin crack, which is followed up to a belay stance. The last pitch is easier and goes right to the summit of the formation.
Protection
Large cams are useful on the second pitch; small cams near the crux.
The first two pitches of this route make for a pleasant outing if you're just looking for something to do. A single rope gets you back to the base with two rappels, although watch your ends on the first rap as the rope barely reaches the belay stance. An intermediate rappel about 15' above provides an easier (although less comfortable) option.
Magic Mountain
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