Jeff Raymond leads the elegant pitch 4 traverse on...
Description
Scary Larry has never believed that Red Rock Canyon ever gets hot. It can get warm, but not really hot. He doesn't really understand why people avoid the place in the summer. For this reason, when an ambitious and eager climber named Jeff Raymond actually wanted to climb in Red Rock on his birthday (July 2), Larry immediately went into action, pulling from his 'list' something appropriate to do along with recruiting another climber or two to make it a party for Jeff on his birthday.
After two more friends decided to join us, the plan was set- a new line up the Community Pillar in Pine Creek canyon. It should be noted that loose rock is present on the 5th pitch, thus making this pitch serious for the grade (or encouraging a detour onto the variation listed below).
About 150 feet left of Community Pillar is an obvious crack system. About 30 feet further left is a short chimney leading to a left-facing, varnished corner.
Pitch 1: Climb past the roof (5.10a), with good protection, and continue up the corner to a comfortable ledge.
Pitch 2: Follow the crack (5.9) to a good ledge at the base of the large chimney.
Pitch 3: On the left hand side of the monster chimney you are in is a smaller chimney. Head up this and then step right, following a crack to a dihedral. This leads to a stance at the top of the corner. 5.7, 100'.
Pitch 4: Head up the slab and crack above, eventually stepping right over a loose boulder and then following the crack until it ends. From here a short traverse to the left gains a second crack. Follow this crack until it ends at a huge ledge. 5.9, 190'. [Note: If rope drag or gear is an issue, just after the traverse is an optional hanging belay.]
Pitch 5: From here, head up the obvious slot above, following the chimney until you reach its end. From here, head left and up the slabs, aiming for a tree at the top. Belay here. 5.8 R, 190'. (A recommended alterative is to traverse left on easy rock and join the Honeycomb Chimney near the top of its 4th pitch.)
Descent: Descend as per Community Pillar.
Variation (5.9): Start at the first crack/chimney to the left of Community Pillar. This is about 30 feet right of the standard starting corner. Work your way straight up the squeeze to a comfy belay ledge. 5.9, 70'. A number 4.5 Camalot provides protection. The second pitch continues up the obvious chimney (5.8), joining the standard route at a large ledge. Rock quality and protection are issues.
Protection
A standard rack will do. Extra hands and fist pieces are handy.
Wonderful outing!! Proud to be a part of the FA. The hanging belay is just below a really fun vertical hand crack. I think that about 25 feet up the hand crack (above the hanging belay) is another more comfy belay spot. After you finger traverse left, decide if you want to set up a hanging belay or fire the vertical hand crack. I wish I went for the hand crack because to have led it would have been stellar. Good route description Larry and John. Do this route; it is so worth it!!
Finally got around to doing a continuous ascent of the route- the original first and last pitches werent so good, but when we put up the new ones, I never did the route as a whole again.
Anyway, the route overall is quite nice. The first pitch has some questionable rock, but the pro is good and the rock is good where the climbing is difficult, so its not too bad.
Link the first two pitches- combined they're about 110' or so.
The Honeycomb exit is SPECTACULAR and an absolute must do- dont even bother with the original last pitch of this route- the Honeycomb exit is one of the best 5.8 corners in Red Rock- a splitter crack up perfect black varnish....wonderful!
We didnt do the very last pitch on Honeycomb- I've done it before and while its good, its not worth the descent you commit to if you do it. We descended as per Community Pillar.
Rack: Singles to 4", extra #2, #3 camalots are nice, maybe an extra .75 as well.
Magic Mountain
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