Fran places a piece just before firing up a crux s...
Description
This neat little route is one of the few Joe Herbst routes you'll find that can be classified as a finger crack. It can be found on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon (the shady side!), about 100 yards to the right of Community Pillar and about 100' left of the start of Magic Triangle.
The route ascends a right facing dihedral that steadily gets steeper as it gets higher. Just left of the route is the bolted arete of Five and Dime.
Start climbing at the base of the corner, under some ledges. Work your way up and ascend the corner. Be careful of the loose block near the top.
A single rope rappel gets you back down.
Protection
Bring a fair assortment of stoppers and doubles of smallish stuff to a #.75 camalot. Single cams to 3" is good, a 4" wont hurt you, but is not required.
Julie Haas & I replaced the anchor last week. Two old 3/8" bolts up high were connected to a 1/4" bolt down low, and right of the 1/4" bolt was a 1/2" deep 3/8" hole with lichen growing in it. I removed the 1/4" bolt, redrilled the hole, then continued the old 3/8" hole, for a 2-new-bolt anchor. For the old 3/8" bolts, the right one broke easily, and I just removed the hanger on the other one, which is a relatively new 3/8" split-shaft compression bolt. These will not break and must be pulled or hacksawed, and I didn't have the appropriate gear for either, so it's still there without a hanger.
Magic Mountain
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