Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Magic Mountain
Show routes:
Select route...
Birthday Party 
Bottle Bill 
Cartwright Corner 
Community Pillar 
Edge of the Sun 
Five and Dime 
Five Pack 
Honeycomb Chimney 
Magic Triangle 
Masquerade 
Small Purchase 
Texas Longneck 

Edge of the Sun 

5.10

   

FA: Dave Wonderly & Warren Egbert 1988
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 400 feet
Views: 188 page views

Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Pitch 2 on Edge of the Sun.


Description 

This route climbs the small face and just to the right of Five Pack. Pitch 1: climb the arete and adjacent face to a good belay ledge. Pitch 2: go straight up the face with a few protection bolts and some gear placements to a bolted belay station near a big overhang. Pitch 3: climb left and up past protection bolts to a ledge beneath the final headwall. Climb straight up to a belay station at the top.

Rappel the route. Be careful of rope snags on the numerous flakes and horns. Alternatively, continue to the top of the Magic Triangle.


Protection 

Standard rack



Add Photo Photos of Edge of the Sun
Routes on the Bottle:  A) Bottle Bill,  B) Five Pack,  C) Texas Longneck,  D) Edge of the Sun

BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Bottle: A) Bottle Bill, B) Five Pa...

The beginning of pitch 3 on Edge of the Sun.<br />

The beginning of pitch 3 on Edge of the Sun.



Add Comment Comments on Edge of the Sun
Show which comments
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 17, 2005

Can you rappel this route with a single 60 meter rope or do you need two ropes?

By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Sep 18, 2005
rating: 5.10c

Rappel needs two ropes. Be careful of the 64,389 snaggy little flakes and horns on the face below and to the right.

By Guy Humphrey
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 17, 2007

Has anyone attempted to link the first two pitches together with a 60M rope?

By meo
Oct 21, 2007

The 3rd pitch is one of the best I've done. The dean said it was one of the best pitches he's ever done.
Great face climbing with equally great exposure. The first pitch wanders a bit. I would not try and combine the 1st and 2nd.