This is the large dihedral on the left side of the EAst Face of Mescalito. It is to the left of Cookie Monster.
pitch 1: go up an easy chimney and belay at a small tree on the right side.
pitch 2: continue up the crack. Sustained climbing up squeeze chimneys and cracks goes past several cruxes. Ultimately a smooth chimney leads to a huge ledge on the crest of the ridge.
pitch 3: Turn right and climb a pleasant (and comparatively relaxed) crack on the crest of the ridge. From the large belay ledge at its top, scramble down and west (class 3) to rappel anchors on Cat in the Hat.
Protection
Surprisingly, not much need for big gear; in fact most big gear will not be big enough. Fortunately there are options for a variety of gear from small to hand or fist size. Bring a bunch of this stuff.
we did this route this weekend, have to disagree with what was said about not needing any large gear!! we had a No. 5 & 6 cam as well as a green and yellow big bro... placed all of these pieces on the second (crux) pitch... was glad that we had them with us too!!!
I though it was a great route, exciting... a bit scary & highly phsyical! all in all... it's why you climb!
we had a single rack to 4", and it was well protected- leave the monster gear on the deck.
Also- p2 as described is more like 215' or 220'- definitely bring a 70m or break p2 into 2.
I'd agree with 5.9 on this- joe herbst 5.9, that is!
By Andrew Carson From: Wilson, WY Mar 4, 2009 rating: 5.9+
We belayed on a nice but smallish ledge at about 140' on the second pitch. You'd never reach the huge ledge on the crest anyway, even with a 70 m rope, (I think), and the rope drag would take alot of the fun out of it. We liked our standard rack to a #4, and had added stoppers at the suggestion Handren's guide. Maybe a few extra medium and large, not a whole additional set. Don't forget your kneepads.
i reached the ledge with a 70m and about 6' to spare- probably the longest pitch i've led! i had practically no drag (although the weight of the rope was noticeable)- but then, i didnt think the pitch was that well protected, i think i ended up using all but two or three stoppers and a couple of cams out of a single rack to 4" and a set and a half of stoppers, which isnt that much considering the length of the pitch.
a great route, though- i'd highly recommend it regardless of how you break it up!
By J. Thompson From: denver, co Mar 11, 2009 rating: 5.9
Handren comments in his exellent guidebook book that the second pitch would make a great warm up for Epinephrine....I agree.
Also A standard rack to a #4 works great.
josh
By Andrew Carson From: Wilson, WY Mar 13, 2009 rating: 5.9+
Clearly, I stand corrected on that ' 70 m rope' comment. Go for it, I guess. For whatever it's worth, I reached my belay on the second pitch with the #4 cam still on the rack. Saving it for the hard part, perhaps.
As stated, highly physical. I enjoyed immensely but would not do it again. Leading 2nd pitch, quality of many of the holds at critical points suspect. I found myself trying to distribute my pull between holds to lower chance of disaster. The crux chimney really suckers you off course. Harder and less protected than E. Steve
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