On the east face of Mescalito in Pine Creek Canyon there are two large left-facing corners on the south end. This route climbs the second (north) corner. Follow the trail into the canyon. Approach as if going to Cat in the Hat. Head up just before entering the south fork. There are a few thin climber's trails up to the east face of Mescalito. The climb starts atop a small ledge system. We started below this band on its south end and climbed up a short easy chimney to the base of the route. The line is up the corner for two or three pitches (depends on where you build anchors). When the corner ends you can continue up Cat in the Hat or rappel it (CitH) with two ropes. I thought this made an excellent direct way to the good upper pitches of Cat. A good option if Cat is crowded, although it is an all gear route a # grade harder.
Protection
A standard rack. If you bring big stuff you can use it.
I've done Cat-In-The-Hat a few times and except for the last pitch I don't get the five star rating. Cookie Monster, on the other hand, is, I believe, a nicer line straight up to the last pitch of Cat, it has bomber pro, and it avoids the cluster fugs of people. Maybe Cookie is not so popular because it is not in Swain's book and you have to build anchors. ??
In two pitches we were able to climb Cookie Monster all the way to the base of the final pitch of Cat in the Hat.
We scrambled up from the base of Cookie Monster to a nice belay ledge and we had to stretch our 60 m rope both pitches. On the second pitch we passed the usual end of Cookie Monster (big ledge, tree) and followed a nice connector crack up to Cat.
By Doug Hemken From: Madison, WI Jan 18, 2008 rating: 5.7 PG13
Fun route. We encountered about a dozen young big horn on the ledge where you start (I could smell them before I could see them)! In winter the first pitch stays in the shade, but beyond that the leader can catch some sun.
We also did it in two pitches and then continued straight up to and through the last pitch of "Cat in the Hat" (so 3 pitches, total). We then continued on to the top of Mescalito and did the gorgeous walk-off (see the beta on the main Mescalito page), which adds a star to the quality of any route up this side.
By scott isaacman From: Libertyville Apr 26, 2008 rating: 5.5
Did this with MG and had a blast. We were the only two on the route: Cat was filled, had a waiting line, and traffic jam with rapping.
Mescalito
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