This climb fallows a right facing corner for two pitches. It starts just to the left of Y2K. Face climb,jam, and stem up the corner past a thin section(crux) to fixed gear and slings. Continue up the corner angling slightly left using mostly face climbing,stemming, and some chimneying.
Protection
Fixed pro and slings in the crack at top of first pitch,but you can build an anchor and only use them to rappel. Slings around tree on top of second pitch. A standard rack and slings will do. Two ropes to rappel.
I should have given this a star when I put it in. I want to return and do the tight dihedral on the right as the second pitch. It looked good and I am not sure if it has been done. If anyone knows please fill me in. I think you might be able to get to the anchor on top of Y2K's P2. This was a good morning out. A good long 1st pitch if u r waiting for Y2K to open up.
A short but worthwhile climb with a stellar first pitch that has lots of variety. Made for an interesting 5.7 anyway. I got to do a little traversing under a small roof at the start, some liebacking, stemming, jamming,a little chimneying and chicken-winging too!
P-1 is 180 feet of pure fun! P-2 is 150 feet ; nothing to write home about but had a couple of fun moves.
My partner, and I felt the first pitch was the crux pitch, but in at least one guidebook it has P-2 listed as the crux pitch, so go figure.
Both pitches have adequate protection.
We didn't feel R.P.s were necessary for this climb, even though the King of R.P.s put this route up. Hexes were very useful. (We used gear up to a #3 friend which was fine)
Watch out for rope eating cracks when pulling, and throwing ropes. I saw some rope remnants deep inside a crack, and ours almost got eaten too in the same spot.
Mescalito
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