Five Pack 

FA:  1977 Joe Herbst, Tom Kaufman, Larry Hamilton, Scott Woodruff, Steve Allen Type:  Trad Length:  4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Views: 913 page views Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Approaching the end of the beautiful jamcrack on p...

Description 

This excellent route climbs the crack system on the right side of the Bottle.

Pitch 1: Climb up to a short chimney and follow it to the large ledge.

Pitch 2: Move to the right end of the ledge and climb straight up the crack system, which becomes an offwidth, followed by a beautiful handcrack.

Pitch 3: Climb up the dihedral a ways, then move left to avoid the large roof. Just above the roof, climb back right to gain the main dihedral on the right side of the Bottle. (Do not continue straight up the varnished crack above- it is a different route.) It may be desirable to belay just above the roof and then do a very short (10-15 foot) traverse to the right and set up a new belay in the dihedral.

Pitch 4: Go straight up the dihedral until it starts to lean right, then make a few face moves before regaining the jamcrack at the lip of the roof .

The main descent options are to either rappel Edge of the Sun via 3 long rappels from bolted stations, or continue to the top of the Magic Triangle via a few 5.5 pitches and go down the Crabby Appleton gully with a few short rappels.

Protection 

Normal rack including at least one big cam (number 4 Camalot or bigger).

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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Bottle: A) Bottle Bill, B) Five Pa...	"You want me to do what?!" Sport climber Nate con...	Steve Allen, belayed by Joe Herbst, completes the ...