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Five Pack 

5.10

   

FA: 1977 Joe Herbst, Tom Kaufman, Larry Hamilton, Scott Woodruff, Steve Allen
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II
Views: 1,428 page views

Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005


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Approaching the end of the beautiful jamcrack on p...


Description 

This excellent route climbs the crack system on the right side of the Bottle.

Pitch 1: Climb up to a short chimney and follow it to the large ledge.

Pitch 2: Move to the right end of the ledge and climb straight up the crack system, which becomes an offwidth, followed by a beautiful handcrack.

Pitch 3: Climb up the dihedral a ways, then move left to avoid the large roof. Just above the roof, climb back right to gain the main dihedral on the right side of the Bottle. (Do not continue straight up the varnished crack above- it is a different route.) It may be desirable to belay just above the roof and then do a very short (10-15 foot) traverse to the right and set up a new belay in the dihedral.

Pitch 4: Go straight up the dihedral until it starts to lean right, then make a few face moves before regaining the jamcrack at the lip of the roof .

The main descent options are to either rappel Edge of the Sun via 3 long rappels from bolted stations, or continue to the top of the Magic Triangle via a few 5.5 pitches and go down the Crabby Appleton gully with a few short rappels.


Protection 

Normal rack including at least one big cam (number 4 Camalot or bigger).



Photos of Five Pack Slideshow Add Photo
Routes on the Bottle:  A) Bottle Bill,  B) Five Pack,  C) Texas Longneck,  D) Edge of the Sun

BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Bottle: A) Bottle Bill, B) Five Pa...

"You want me to do what?!"  Sport climber Nate contemplates a fist jam on the final jamcrack of Five Pack.

"You want me to do what?!" Sport climber Nate con...

Steve Allen, belayed by Joe Herbst, completes the final moves on the first ascent of Five Pack (1977).  Larry Hamilton photo.

Steve Allen, belayed by Joe Herbst, completes the ...

A look up at the 4th pitch corner

BETA PHOTO: A look up at the 4th pitch corner

Brett rounding the corner after traversing the roof and nearing the 3rd pitch belay

Brett rounding the corner after traversing the roo...

Brett making his way up the face moves just prior to the roof/corner finish

Brett making his way up the face moves just prior ...

Brett working the crux and gaining the corner, thanks to fist jams and placing the #4 Camalot for protection.

Brett working the crux and gaining the corner, tha...

Me scoping out the final moves before attempting the corner

Me scoping out the final moves before attempting t...

Barely hanging on while searching for a comfortable enough position to remove the last piece.

Barely hanging on while searching for a comfortabl...


Comments on Five Pack Add Comment
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By L. Hamilton
Mar 1, 2005

Historical note: The name "Bottle Bill," a Joe Herbst pun, alludes to a beverage-container deposit law that was being debated in Nevada at the time -- and of course also to the formation's bottle-like shape. "Five Pack" connected this theme to the 5-man FA party.

By jblackattack
From: las vegas, nv
Oct 23, 2008

Did this route yesterday and found it to be a very fun route. Definitely advisable to stay with in the cracks when possible. Found lots of loose friable rock just outside the cracks on the first 3 pitches which keeps you honest for sure. 4th pitch was great with the roof and final lay back capping it all off