Approaching the end of the beautiful jamcrack on p...
Description
This excellent route climbs the crack system on the right side of the Bottle.
Pitch 1: Climb up to a short chimney and follow it to the large ledge.
Pitch 2: Move to the right end of the ledge and climb straight up the crack system, which becomes an offwidth, followed by a beautiful handcrack.
Pitch 3: Climb up the dihedral a ways, then move left to avoid the large roof. Just above the roof, climb back right to gain the main dihedral on the right side of the Bottle. (Do not continue straight up the varnished crack above- it is a different route.) It may be desirable to belay just above the roof and then do a very short (10-15 foot) traverse to the right and set up a new belay in the dihedral.
Pitch 4: Go straight up the dihedral until it starts to lean right, then make a few face moves before regaining the jamcrack at the lip of the roof .
The main descent options are to either rappel Edge of the Sun via 3 long rappels from bolted stations, or continue to the top of the Magic Triangle via a few 5.5 pitches and go down the Crabby Appleton gully with a few short rappels.
Protection
Normal rack including at least one big cam (number 4 Camalot or bigger).
Historical note: The name "Bottle Bill," a Joe Herbst pun, alludes to a beverage-container deposit law that was being debated in Nevada at the time -- and of course also to the formation's bottle-like shape. "Five Pack" connected this theme to the 5-man FA party.
Did this route yesterday and found it to be a very fun route. Definitely advisable to stay with in the cracks when possible. Found lots of loose friable rock just outside the cracks on the first 3 pitches which keeps you honest for sure. 4th pitch was great with the roof and final lay back capping it all off
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