This route starts just to the left of where the Solar Slab route starts up from the terrace. There is a prominent corner that curves up and to the left, forming an arch. Climb up the slab, heading for a patch of varnish that is about twenty feet below and to the right of the bottom of the corner. Protection is available here. Go up and left to the corner and follow it to a bolted belay station. (5.8)
Pitch 2: Continue up the corner above, passing two protection bolts, until you can tunnel up underneath the arch (5.9). Belay on a good ledge that is halfway up the second pitch of Solar Slab.
Pitch 3: Climb up and right about twenty feet to reach the bottom of a clean finger crack. Follow this straight up (5.9) for a long pitch to the belay station at the top of Solar Slab's pitch 3. (The upper part of this pitch has been used as a variation to Solar Slab, sometimes unintentionally.)
From this point, you can continue to the top on Solar Slab, or rappel using bolted rap stations.
Protection
standard rack, maybe a few extras in the finger-size range for the upper crack
Maybe I'm just a wimp, but I'd have to say that the second pitch of this is a solid 10a, maybe even 10b. It's certainly harder than other 5.9s I've done on the Solar Slab Wall.
As of the beginning of April be careful at the topout of the short chimney section. Someone dropped a poo right on the middle of the ledge (and placed a rock over it) that I was very lucky not to stick my hand in or step in.
I just climbed this line again today and I think I'm going to stick with my 10a rating. It's definitely harder than Sunflower, Sundog, or Bhuela's Book...
Just below the bolts on the right hand side there is a double crack system. The upper of the two crack systems (the one further from the wall) harbors the smaller of the two cracks. This is a very inviting crack for #1 Camalots or the equivalent. Be aware that the flake that makes up this crack is loose. This piece of rock moved when I leaned against it. The rock probably weighs well over a thousand pounds, so be careful!
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