Solar Slab Gully is mainly used as an approach to get to the upper face and climb Solar Slab. The climbing is not particularily appealing, but still fun. The pitches are not very distinct, and many belay spots are possible. Follow the prominent trail that starts at the Oak Creek Canyon parking lot for 45 minutes to an hour or so to get to a huge gully on the right.
P1) Pick a route up the gully. Many possiblities exist. A wide crack is in the middle of the face, or a smaller crack to the right. Step around left eventually to a fixed anchor. (5.1)
P2) Scramble and chimney up the left side of the gully. When the gully opens up, a belay is possible at an oak tree with slings to the right. Another option is to continue until a wide steeper section is encountered. (4th class)
P3) Climb up this water worn area passing a sling-threaded hole. This is a possible belay, but it is best to continue on. Belay when comfortable. (5.1)
P4) Scramble up to a vertical wide chimney that is often wet. Belay. (4th class)
P5) Climb the chimney. A set of anchors is immediately at the top left of the chimney, or continue higher to the main terrace. (5.3)
Descent: Rappel the route. Fixed anchors can be found in many places. 5 rappels are necessary and some easy down climbing. Make sure to make mental notes as to where the anchors are at in case of a rappel in the dark after Solar Slab.
If you're using the Gully as a descent route, but didn't climb it to get up to Solar Slab, take care on the rappels. Some of the rap anchors aren't visible until they're pretty much right in front of you. And if you rappel past certain of the anchors, you might find yourself facing a bit of a mini-epic. (Unfortunately, I know from experience.....)
I think the lack of stars here just indicates that it's boring for more advanced climbers. I don't believe there are any better routes at this rating in Vegas.
Once nice thing is that it's climbable on hot days - every belay was fairly shady.
I think the Johnny Vegas rap line is a lot better in terms of rope management.
as of two weeks ago, mid march, about half of the bolts on the gully rap anchors were in need of a little TLC. most of them appear to need just a little wrenching. a couple of them actually wiggled.
if the gully is on your way, bring a wrench and do us all a favor.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Dec 31, 2006
Solar Slab - Lower Tier
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