Lemon Bomb (aka The "A" Crack) 

FA:  Dirk McDiggler & Drug Shop Dave New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11d [details] Length:  2 pitches, 170 feet Views: 153 page views Submitted By: Arthur Parker on Feb 1, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Anyone climbing the route described as "The A Crack" in the new guidebook is in for a nasty shock, The A Crack is about 150 yards to the right of Red Zinger down and around the corner on the right side of the Byrd Pinnacle. The route described as The A Crack is called Lemon Bomb. The first pitch had been done years ago but the second is quite stout, strenuous and a real battle to protect. Lemon Bomb 170 ft 5.11d. Start as for Red Zinger at the base of the deep left facing corner.

1. 90 ft 5.9 Layback up the wide flake to the left of the main corner. Continue up the thinner cracks above to an anchor on a ledge.

2. 80 ft 5.11d Continue up the tips crack into an awkward flare. Above the flare an easier fist crack leads to a ledge on the right with an anchor.

Protection 

Single set of cams from #00 tcu to #4 camalot, rp's, wires, a really big cam (9 inches?) might make the flare on pitch 2 less bold.