This route is something that Larry had been eyeing for a while, well, he had mostly been eyeing the giant roof just up and left from the top of Pitch 2 of Johnny Vegas. Now all we had to do was find a way up there. Larry had heard of a route between Johnny Vegas and Beulah's Book that may offer passage to the route- which it did, with a slight variation.
Pitch 1: Start in a right facing dihedral about 50 or 60' left of Johnny Vegas. Head up this, passing a bolt and eventually arriving at the first belay for Johnny Vegas. From here, continue up to a large ledge about 20' up and belay. 5.8, 185'
Pitch 2: In the middle of the ledge there is a crack system heading straight up. Follow this until it starts to arch to the left, then step right and go straight up the face, aiming for where the roof above is at its smallest. Belay just above the roof at a stance. 5.8, 150'
Pitch 3: The aid pitch. Head up somewhat easy ground to the base of the overhang. Climb up a couple of moves and then aid through the rest, making a somewhat exposed move at the lip of the roof. Creative gear allows for an anchor right at the lip to prevent rope drag. 5.8 C1, 50'.
Pitch 4: Step to the right and head up and past the bolted station at the top of P3 of Johnny Vegas. Belay at the bolts or boulders above. 5.4, 150'.
Variation: If you're not into the aid climbing thing, you can traverse left under the roof and belay there, then continue to the top. This goes at 5.8+ or 5.9 for a couple of moves.
Protection
Bring a regular rack with a set of ballnutz and doubles in the blue/green Alien size for the roof.
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Mar 6, 2005 rating: 5.8
If you're strong and feeling brave, I'm somewhat optimistic that the roof may be possible to free....it's blue alien size for two aid moves- which may translate to three or four roof moves. If you send it, let me know- i'm interested to see if its possible!
Climbed this route yesterday. It will defianlty go free...and is an absolutely awesome crack(the roof). The 2 pitch's leading up to the roof are fun 5.8.If you have small fingers, freeing the roof will be easier, but it's- probably- possible for a stronge climber with fatter fingers as well. I'm *guessing* this one will come in around 5.12+ to 5.13- Finger size dependant.You need about 3 Blue Aliens(or a like size cam) to protect the roof.
Solar Slab - Lower Tier
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