BETA PHOTO: The main left facing dihedral is Red Zinger.
Description
An Indian Creek style crack climb which would probably get three stars if it were longer or didn't have a big ledge in the middle.
The climb follows a left facing corner in a west facing alcove about five minutes walk east of Solar Slab gully.
P1: 75', 5.10. Mostly fun, 5.9 jamming and laybacking with a technical stem/reach at 3/4 height. This pitch has several stances/rests and ends at a rap station on a big ledge.
P2: 35', 5.10+. Though Swain rates these two pitches the same, P2 is harder, particularly to lead. The crux is quite reminiscent of The Wave on Supercrack Buttress at Indian Creek -- laybacking around a bulge; have a 1.5 Friend size piece ready to go. After about 35' the crack ends at a large roof where there is a rap station. Two short raps to descend. A single 60m rope might just make it from the second anchor to the ground. If you don't do the continuation described below, the leader will be a lot more comfortable if he/she lowers from the end of the 2nd pitch and belays from the first rap station.
It is possible to continue from the second anchor by slab traversing left about 15' and joining the crack system to left which has its own anchors and which Swain rumors to be 5.9 but looks harder. This continuation would add about 50' of climbing and provides an interesting contrast in styles --an abrupt transition from power laybacking to tenuous slabbing -- but is somewhat tricky to protect for the 2nd on without a big piece (~4.5 Camalot). The crux of the traverse is at the start, so the leader is protected adequately. Once the traverse is over, the crack above, which we did not climb, appears to require wide hand pieces, maybe 3 and 3.5 Camalots.
The climber in photo 1 is starting the P1 crux.
Protection
Double set of cams from thin fingers to hands with perhaps a couple of extra in the rattly fingers / thin hands range. A couple of small to medium nuts come in handy on P1.
Really unique route at RR. If you like Indian Creek, you'll like this one. I'd recommend 3 each of purple and green Camalots (0.5 and 0.75). I found the first pitch really fun; I found the crux on the second pitch really hard, even for 5.10+...BTW, we have beta about several RR routes and loads of US and Canadian classics on our site: www.ericandlucie.com.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 26, 2006 rating: 5.10+
SUPERB. one of the best single pitch crack routes in Red Rocks. Crux maybe the bulge after first anchor.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Dec 31, 2006 rating: 5.10+
A great "bonus" pitch after climbing a long route on Solar Slab.
really great route with varied movement and great pro. stout, though- especially the second pitch. i'd say the first pitch is height dependent at the crux- the shorter you are, the tougher you have to be!
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco 2 days ago rating: 5.10+
Stems, liebacks and jams on P1 and a powerful but short .10d crux lieback on P2.
Great route and a lot of good rests, I just wish it was longer.
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