The Schwa 

FA:  Joe Herbst, 1977 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10d [details] Length:  2 pitches, 200 feet Season:  Spring/Fall Views: 213 page views Submitted By: vegastradguy on Sep 26, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: john wilder linking the direct start and the secon...

Description 

The Schwa is a striking splitter crack that divides a beautiful piece of white sandstone. The route is difficult to spot from the main trail, but once you begin ascending the hill, the route is obvious. The route has two first pitches- The original start went up the gully to the right of the route, then traversed left along a ledge to the base of the crack (110', 5.7). The direct start is .10d and goes up the obvious line to the base of the crack. The crack itself is .10d and approximately 90' long. The anchors are about 20' to the right of the top, but its better to belay at the top of the crack and then traverse over. The anchors are two fixed nuts with new cord as of Sept '07. One double rope rappel gets you to the ground.

Location 

Sitting at the mouth of Mud Springs Canyon, the Mud Spring Wing is the east facing buttress that forms the north side of the canyon's mouth. On the obvious east face is an obvious white face about 100 yards right of the huge roof that sits low to the ground at the toe of the buttress.

Protection 

A good selection if planning on doing the direct start from fingers to wide (7")- double up on most things, triple on fists and off fists.

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BETA PHOTO: the schwa is the the awsome splitter to o.w. in th...	the rack needed to link the direct start with pitc...	its a long walk back to the truck from the schwa t...