Joanne Urioste on pitch 13 or 14, the loose stuff,...
Description
The 2hr approach makes this route a well earned prize. Just keep moving west from the base of Resolution Arete til you get to the west side of Aeolian Tower. Climb straight up easy/wide cracks forming the west side of the Aeolian Tower for 3 pitches then the crux bolted pitch awaits on the main wall. Spicy and fun, the crux comes at the start of pitch 4 and it's well protected but a bit of a zig zag, since Joanne bolted it on lead with hooks! After that, it remains a steep mostly direct line that trends a bit left to top out. The very last couple pitches are a bit loose but nothing unmanageable. Get a late return ticket because you will take all day. Joanne and I started walking at 0430 from the highway and returned to the car @ 11pm. Awesome climb and lady.
Protection
Standard rack, bolted crux pitch and sprinkling of bolts on other pitches, bolted anchors and a couple trees.
I am looking to climb Woman of Mountain Dreams this November. We did Inti last year, so we are familiar with the approach, however there seems to be some disagreement among people here as to the best way down. Some people suggest the walk off down through First Creek Canyon, while others say the the Oak Creek method is better. Should I also assume that rapping Dogma is a bad idea? I have to assume that given the length of the route and the time of the year at least some of our descent will be in the dark. Give that what would be the best way down for us. Since this is likely a walk off is a single 70M a better option than 60M doubles?
Rapping Dogma is probably a bad idea. We did Resolution Arete a few years ago and started the descent the same time as another group that rapped Dogma. We were back to the highway 3hrs before them. Walking is faster.
Dave....walk down Oak Creek. I've done it several times and it's no big deal. I got the beta for it from Joanne who insist's that it's way better than First Creek. There is much less boulder hopping. Also if you are fast enough you can knock ALOT of hiking off both ends by Parking at the Oak Creek trailhead. You might want to get the late exit permit. The days are short in November!
Aeolian Wall
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