DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D) 

FA:  Larry DeAngelo, Karsten Duncan - Sept 29, 2007 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10+ [details] Length:  12 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade IV Views: 339 page views Submitted By: Karsten on Oct 19, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Double DD

Description 

This is a true adventure climb. Destined to be another seldom repeated Wilson route, this climb has a little of everything. Generally the climbing is on good rock but sometimes with sparse protection. A variety of skills from routefinding to OW to scary face are necessary for this route.

Pitches 1-4:
Begin up a pleasant crack on good rock. Continue up past a bush and generally in or around the crack for 400ft. As the crack plays out trend left over onto a sloped ledge. 4th to 5.7

Pitch 5:
Continue climbing 200ft up thin cracks and face to the left of a wide dihedral. The climbing is 5.8+ with tricky protection and runnouts. 5.8+

Pitch 6:
Move up until the buttress comes to a point and belay on a nice ledge around the corner on the right. 5.8

Pitch 7:
Move back left to the crack and continue up it for a short way until reaching easier ground. Watch rope drag on this one. 5.8

Pitch 8:
Above climb the arete past large blocks and over a spectacularly exposed grand roof on its left side. Belay on top of buttress. 5.9

Pitch 9:
Move down and left into the gulley and up the gulley into the thicket of brush. 5.6

Pitch 10:
Scramble through the brush to the main face (same face as Lady Wilson) and the obvious large chimney. 4th class

Pitch 11:
Climb up a short offwidth on the left wall of the chimney to reach a ledge and then move back right to get back to the chimney above. Continue climbing up the dirty chimney until a crack angling rightward out of the chimney can be taken. Continue up this crack system to a good belay stance in a small corner. 190ft 5.10

Pitch 12:
Move up the corner using multiple cracks and then exit out on face holds and sketchy to no protection to traverse up and back left to the main crack and belay from a tree in the crack. 190ft 5.10+

Pitch 13
Climb the squeeze chimney up and into the upper wide mouth gulley above. 5.8

From here follow the gulley to the summit with a few 4th class moves and using a fixed rope. Be careful as there are alot of loose things up here.

Location 

Approach:
Approach as for Lady Wilson's cleavage in the Larry's Red Rock Odyssey Guide. Break off left until you see a wide chimney/slot. The climb begins on a nice 4" crack to the right of the slot.

Descent:
The fastest descent is down the slabs into first creek. Generally stay left as you head down the slabs. The slabs will funnel you down to a dropoff with a large dead tree at its bottom. Traverse around this on the right and continue in the gulley. Generally continue to stay to the left here find an unlikely descent down a red tongue of rock jutting westward from the main wall. Continue out the first creek gulley.

Protection 

RP's to new #4 camalot. All anchors are natural.

Add Photo Photos of DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D)

A topo from Larry's Red Rock Odyssey for the appro...	Larry DeAngelo climbing high on the route	Larry DeAngelo climbing one of the nice face pitch...
Where's the beer? Larry DeAngelo tops out another ...	The slabs descent	Low on the route, climbing the face next to the ch...
Pitch 5 has some nice face climbing.	Karsten is casual as he gears up for the crux pitc...	The start of the crux pitch looks innocent enough....