Gwondonna Land Boogie 

I have been told that Gwondonna Land Boogie has not seen many subsequent ascent due in part it's serious reputation. I really felt good about this ascent at the time we did it and have always wanted to go back to it.I would love to hear from anyone who has done this route in the last 23 years. It may be a bit serious but imho it is a stellar route.

Hey Phil, what is the best way to get to Sherwood Forest? And have you done, or are you aware of the sport the route "Dogma" in this area?

George: The easiest (least technical) approach to Sherwood is via Willy's Couloir. Personally I like faster and more direct lines up either side of the Pink Tornado. There are a handfull of other climbing lines and tons of potential for more. I have not done but am aware of the route Dogma. I have looked up at the line above Sherwood forest and it does look spectacular. Joanne says the route was established from the top down which is whty the bolts become denser as you ascend. She has heard that it is a really good route (for a weenie sport climb). Joanne's new Red Rocks Red Book Supplement has a good description and photos. Look for her new book it has some great photos and routes in it. Good luck, I would love to know what you think if you go do this line. Peace Phil

Here is an update on Gwondonna. Apparently we were braver bolder and no doubt crazier a few decades ago but this route probably should have been rated IV 5.10a/b X. The third pitch was a probable death lead. It had only 3 or 4 small wired stoppers in a full rope length and the climbing is hard steep face. The good news is (good news, bad news, you choose) the whole route has been retro-bolted. This was done with the approval of the first ascensionists. The old pitch three now has enough pro bolts to make it seriously sporting but survivable. The "tectonic" shift ledge even has a bolt to protect that long traverse left. This is still the easiest way up the imposing Horseshoe Wall, now it is a whole lot safer.

Gwondonna Land Boogie was indeed named with the ancient paleocontinent of Gondwanna (aka Pangea) in mind. But it was also a deliberate play on, or with words. Simular to the Central Pillar of Frenzy or the Grand Giraffe. It also helps to explain the directions on the "Tectonic Shift" traverse... Gwondonna... "Go on down" the ledge and see if we can boogie off this wall. When we did it originally it was with a small rack of stoppers and hexes (no springs) and a single 150' rope. You can try it that way if you like but the route now has bolted belay/rap stations about every 170', so at least take a 60 meter rope. And if you don't believe there really is a land called Gwondonna then you probably havn't been on this route yet.Cheers, Philo

Thanks for the info, Philo! It's nice to know this formerly death route is now reasonable. Now if I can only find a chopper pilot willing to ferry our lazy asses up to Sherwood Forest ... it is not a casual morning stroll to this spot!

I always assumed the name was a tribute to your wives, who were named Gwenn (or Wanda?) and Donna! Kinda like how Wholesome Fullback was named. Oops, silly me!

Thanks for explaining the route name, it makes sense to me now! I might add that I am personally responsible for the most egregious geological misnomer among Red Rock climbs, which adds to the irony.

just wondering if anybody actually has linked up one of the pink tornado routes to the upper headwall of horseshoe wall (gwandanna land boogie or scottie)

How is Scotty?????????????

Note to Larry Hamilton:I was recently surfing around and came across an actual place called Gwondonaland. It is a region at the Fox Glacier in New Zealand. The locals refer to it as having once been attached to India. A different spelling than the Gondwana district of India but obviously related. The New Zealand region has only one N in it's spelling but I don't suppose I could convince the guide book authors to retro print their books for a spelling correction.

To answer Crotch;
When we did GLB I didn't want to slog up the Willy's way. So while Geoff, Sybil and Newberry hiked the climbing and bivy gear that way I 3rd classed with a light summit pack up the left Tornado to Sherwood. So I guess I did get to do the first link up.