Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Ginger Buttress
Show routes:
Select route...
Ginger Cracks 
Power Failure 
Snake Buttress 
Somewhere Over the Rainbow 
Sugar and Spice 
Unimpeachable Groping 

Power Failure 

5.10

   

FA: The Uriostes and friends
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II
Views: 529 page views

Submitted By: phil broscovak on Feb 19, 2004


Add Photo  Add Comment 
You and this route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Rapping the second pitch of Power Failure on the d...


Description 

Power Failure is a fabulous 3 pitch route the ascends to the right of the prominent water streak visible in the photo. The route starts up hill from Ginger Cracks and just down hill from the water streaks. The route ends in the huge horse shoe basin. Three double rope raps gets you back to the start (this is also the rap line for Ginger Cracks).The raps angle to the right so knot your ends and keep a eye open for anchors. Pitch 1: (130' 5.8) 30' to a bushy ledge then left and up past bolts to belay on the right. Pitch 2: (160' 5.10) climb thin crack to a left facing dihederal. Pitch 3: (160' 5.10) left and up black face to the left of the left facing dihederal. This route is another Urioste classic, enjoy


Protection 

A small trad rack will be appreciated even though there are pro bolts to clip and follow. All anchors are 2 bolt rap anchors.



Add Photo Photos of Power Failure
Cloud Tower reaching the skyline on the right, Ginger Buttress is the triangular buttress in the middle.

BETA PHOTO: Cloud Tower reaching the skyline on the right, Gin...


Add Comment Comments on Power Failure
Show which comments —
By Drederek
May 6, 2004
rating: 5.10c

Climbed this route 5/03/04. Bring plenty of small pieces (to 2") for pitch 3 as it is sustained. What an awesome way to end our day!

By 10b4me
Oct 15, 2004
rating: 5.9+

For pictures, trip report and other beta about this route, check out our web site at www.ericandlucie.com

By ROC
Nov 10, 2004
rating: 5.10c

Very fun and gets sun early on a winters day.

By Anthony Anagnostou
From: nomad
Apr 12, 2005

there are bolts on this puppy, but not enough to make it friendly in a black velvet kind of way. bring lots of slings and consider a #4 for the top. its a teeny bit runout on easier (5.8ish?) friction, but when the water is really running it can be wet/slimy. the big cam looked like it would be the only pro up there.

By john doe
Nov 21, 2005
rating: 5.10a

super fun route. although the new guidebook is a little off. anyone know what route is off to the right? its a super thin left facing dihedral that angles up and right in to a belay a station then continues up to an offwidth to another rap station? both pitches are pretty short. first one was kind of challenging.

By 10b4me
Nov 21, 2005
rating: 5.9+

Great route, but definitely soft for the grade. The climbing is just plain fun! Also recommend the dihedral to the right, it's not in the book but probably in the 5.10 range.

By Anthony Anagnostou
From: nomad
Sep 9, 2007

re: john doe's neighbor route question: that route sounds like 'all you can eat'. i think its in the new guidebook. the first two pitches are fun, if you can stand the hard start (one move wonder- protects with tiny nuts or ballnuts above a bolt), and the second pitch is absolutely classic. splitter lieback to widening crack and eventually to a station. from there it follows a wandering bolt line through untraveled (ugly) rock and tops out on the buttress.