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Clod Tower, The 
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Thagomizer 

Spare Rib 

5.8

   

FA: George and Joanne Urioste, 1980
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 538 page views

Submitted By: vegastradguy on Oct 15, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: Test Tube and Spare Rib


Description 

This is a really neat route and a good option if Crimson is crowded and you need to kill an hour or two. It's also worthy of the hike by itself, especially if pair with a trip up Test Tube or Pachyderm.

About 100 yards east of Crimson is a small buttress with a prominent varnished corner on its left-hand side. Just to the right of this corner at the base is a striking finger crack- this is your route.

Pitch 1: Head up the finger crack through a bulge to the belay. 5.8, 85'

Pitch 2: Step left off the belay and follow bolts and pro to the next belay. 5.7, 85'

Pitch 3: Head straight up on somewhat easy ground, following the bolts to a hanging belay. 5.6, 85'

Pitch 4: Head straight up to the summit on 4th class terrain.

Descent: Rap the route with a single rope.


Protection 

Bring cam to 2", belays are bolted and some bolts can be found on the upper pitches.



Add Photo Photos of Spare Rib
Cloud Tower reaching the skyline on the right, Ginger Buttress is the triangular buttress in the middle.

BETA PHOTO: Cloud Tower reaching the skyline on the right, Gin...

Rapping off of Spare Rib, with Test Tube to the right (climber's left).

Rapping off of Spare Rib, with Test Tube to the ri...

When rebolting with George Urioste previously, he gave me permission to use my judgement with removing a bolt here or there if it wasn't needed. This is the original bolt on the first pitch of Spare Rib, and as you can see, modern smaller cams protect this just fine (any brand would work). We removed this bolt.

When rebolting with George Urioste previously, he ...

A day's work with a hand drill and a very patient partner! The old bolts from Spare Rib's first 3 pitches.

A day's work with a hand drill and a very patient ...


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By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 29, 2006
rating: 5.8

All bolts on pitches 1 through 3 are brand new - thanks to the ASCA. There is one bolt on the last pitch that is still a Urioste original.

By Greg Barnes
Dec 21, 2006
rating: 5.8

I thought each of the first 3 pitches was solid 5.8, and a bit runout on the second and third.