This is a really neat route and a good option if Crimson is crowded and you need to kill an hour or two. It's also worthy of the hike by itself, especially if pair with a trip up Test Tube or Pachyderm.
About 100 yards east of Crimson is a small buttress with a prominent varnished corner on its left-hand side. Just to the right of this corner at the base is a striking finger crack- this is your route.
Pitch 1: Head up the finger crack through a bulge to the belay. 5.8, 85'
Pitch 2: Step left off the belay and follow bolts and pro to the next belay. 5.7, 85'
Pitch 3: Head straight up on somewhat easy ground, following the bolts to a hanging belay. 5.6, 85'
Pitch 4: Head straight up to the summit on 4th class terrain.
Descent: Rap the route with a single rope.
Protection
Bring cam to 2", belays are bolted and some bolts can be found on the upper pitches.
I thought each of the first 3 pitches was solid 5.8, and a bit runout on the second and third.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 15, 2009 rating: 5.8
Thanks for the new hardware, Greg!
I'll ditto your ratings, except to say that the first pitch is four stars, the second pitch three stars (maybe easy 5.8-ish?) and the third pitch was a tad tricky and head's up at a stouter version of 5.8 than either the first or second pitch (with softer rock to boot).
I noted the third pitch belay station has an aluminum hanger (Petzl) for one of the anchors. Looks ok, but, maybe some day...
My partners ratings for the first three pitches were: 5.6, 5.7 and 5.8.
Really fun route. The lefthand belay bolt on pitch 2 is quite loose. It was not coming out of the hole, but wiggled about 1/2 inch. It can be backed up with a cordalette on the first bolt of p3, about 7' higher. It is a hanging stance, so that'd be a good idea.
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