Joe Herbst on pitch 13, first ascent of the Rainbo...
Description
The Original Route on the Rainbow Wall is perhaps Red Rocks’ finest route. It is certainly a crown jewel in terms of achievement: Once you’ve climbed it, things like Levitation 29 and Cloud Tower seem like cragging routes. On a personal note, I made two separate trips to Red Rocks over the past three years specifically to climb this route (both times being thwarted by weather), and after breaking my legs in a fall in January of ’06, I wondered if I’d ever climb it. But after a successful rehabilitation in Yosemite Valley later in the year, I decided to try again. This time we bivied at the base and endured a sleepless night of wind and blowing rain, crouching on our packs in the fetal position trying to stay dry. I seriously questioned whether some divine force was trying to keep me away from this climb, but with daybreak came clearing clouds and blue skies… The rock was dry and despite our exhaustion, we jumped on the opportunity. Was it worth it? Well, you’ll have to climb it and see for yourself.
Once and still a popular aid route, the Original Route is now all-free. During the free ascent in the mid '90's, 40-some-odd bolts were added to the climb. This is indeed absurd, and shortly thereafter all the bolts were chopped. Since then a handful of protection bolts have been replaced as well as bolted belays. It's too bad there are so many blemishes on the rock (both patched and unpatched bolt holes, and plenty of old relic bolts that need to be pulled). However, were it not for the scars from bashing pins, the route probably wouldn't go free at all.
Sustained, technical climbing, flawless rock, corner after steep corner of stems, jams, and intricate face sequences, and generally good gear lends this climb classic status. In my opinion, all of those factors, combined with a great bivy spot at the base of the wall (and at the half-way ledge should you need it), the ability to climb the route with a light rack and a single rope, an incredible view, and an approach that keeps the crowds away, make this one of the most perfect rock climbing experiences imaginable.
The line is obvious: The major dihedral system in the center of the wall. A couple landmarks include the half-way ledge (Over the Rainbow Ledge) and the Red Dihedral – a striking left-facing corner at the top of the wall. The Original Route launches directly up into the corner system from below with a stout 12b pitch close to the deck, then follows some terraces up and right to Over the Rainbow Ledge and finally traverses back left and up to the Red Dihedral which is followed to the top of the wall.
The major variation to the climb is Dan McQuade’s Rainbow Country (5.12d) which straightens out the line by skipping the terraces leading up to Over the Rainbow Ledge in favor of some steep, hard face and crack pitches that link almost directly into the Red Dihedral. One should also note that Rainbow Country includes a variation to the left of the Original Route's first two pitches that avoids the 12b second pitch in favor of some very high quality 5.11d climbing.
A second major variation is that of the Swainbow Wall – basically an easy escape route that launches straight up from Over the Rainbow Ledge, avoiding the Red Dihedral altogether.
A sensible way to climb the route for the first time would be to climb the left-hand variation of pitches one and two, thus avoiding the 5.12b corner, then continuing with the Original Route to the top. On the last pitch of the Red Dihedral, one might consider taking a minor left-hand variation which is slightly easier and ascends better quality rock (see the description for pitch 13 below). This path would maximize the high-quality climbing while keeping the difficulty in check at around 5.12a.
Perhaps the next time on the route, or for parties looking for the greatest challenge possible, the route could be climbed via the right-hand variation of the first two pitches (5.12b), the Rainbow Country variation (5.12d), and then the right-hand variation of pitch 13 (5.12b).
Some other minor notes: The climb is north facing and receives shade, shade, shade. Actually the Red Dihedral sees morning sun, but your chances of being there for it (barring a bivy on Over the Rainbow Ledge) seem slim… dress accordingly. The approach is pretty heinous, but not the 4-8 hours that Swain suggests in his book. The two times I’ve hiked up there took 1:45 loaded down with bivy gear. The trail is generally good, but picking a path through the drainage of Juniper Canyon can be challenging the first time. Once underneath the wall, steep slabs present a final obstacle – these are made easier by old fixed lines. The route does see plenty of one day ascents, but the base of the wall (or, I imagine, Over the Rainbow Ledge if you’re willing to actually haul) really is a nice place to spend the night.
No matter how you climb it, even on aid, the Rainbow Wall is a treat. If you are there to aid climb, please keep in mind that the route goes clean – leave your hammer at home and try to preserve this route for future parties.
P1&2: Two options: 1) Begin directly below the corner system and climb 5.6 ledges and face to a belay at a modern bolt and a quarter-incher. This short pitch of 5.6 could easily be linked into the next one. Continue up into the blank corner past two bolts. Some reachy 5.12b (easy for the grade) moves off face holds will get you to a bolted belay. Excellent climbing. 2) Alternatively, begin well left of this start and climb up a leaning corner system past six bolts (being careful getting to the first bolt) to the belay above the 5.12b section. This checks in at 5.11d and is also excellent.
P3: Step up into a powerful, wide layback immediately off the belay to some decent stances. Continue up the corner until reaching an obvious point to wildly step out right onto the face (the aid line goes straight up). Clip a bolt and then climb up the slightly past-vertical face past a second bolt before stepping back into the corner and continuing to a bolted belay. Sustained, devious, awesome! 5.11d.
P4: Continue straight up the crack system at mid-5.11? This pitch feels much easier than the last. Belay at two bolts.
P5: This pitch is rated 5.11c but again didn’t feel too bad. 5.11a might be more accurate. Climb up a long, hollow flake (decent gear), passing a bolt, then continuing on easier ground up to a roof. Load the roof up with some small gear and undercling and jam around it to the right. Belay just over it at bolts. A long pitch.
P6: Continue up the right facing corner. The rock is lower quality here but only slightly so. The climbing remains interesting and the gear good. Mid 5.10. Continue up until the corner turns ledgey and trend up and right, stretching the rope out until a suitable belay is reached. There are some bolts by a small tree which is a good place. There is a bit of fixed line here which you may wonder about – it facilitates rappelling the route with a 60m rope.
From this point decide whether to continue up the Original Route or to take the direct line of Rainbow Country*.
P7&8: Perhaps best simul-climbed… Walk and scramble up and right and up and right, passing a few short, steep sections. There’s maybe a move or two of generally well-protected 5.9 here and there, but most of it is 3rd and 4th class. Eventually this reaches a bolt at a left-facing corner where the ledge system terminates. Belay here.
P9: Traverse out right and around the arête onto the very exposed face. Follow this up junky, but easy, rock to Over the Rainbow Ledge. This is a short, wild pitch of 5.6 or 5.7.
From this point decide whether to continue up the Original Route or to take the easy Swainbow Wall** escape.
P10: Traverse straight left off the belay on narrow foot ledges. Exposed! Gear is not too great here, but there is one old bolt and a cam placement or two. Out to the left there’s a bolted anchor that allows Rainbow Country to merge back into the standard route, but the goal is to launch straight up to the base of the huge left-facing corner above (the Red Dihedral). The climbing is a little more challenging as one heads up but the pro is adequate. Belay at bolts at the base of the Red Dihedral. 5.7-5.8.
P11: If you chose to avoid the 5.12b second pitch and Rainbow Country, this is the crux pitch. Although it’s only rated 11d in Roxanna’s guidebook, I believe it is 5.12 – certainly harder than any other “11d” pitch on the climb thus far. Launch up the corner via powerful liebacks, delicate stems, and long reaches. The gear is quite good but some holds are better than others for placing it. The crux itself is not too far off the belay and is protected by a bomber glue-in bolt. Perhaps you can figure out how to use the tiny, heavily-chalked crimps, or make sense of the instructions in the new guidebook to “dyno” for the obvious jug up and right, but I couldn’t. Instead I found that wide stems, palm smearing, body tension, and synchronic movement got me through it. Some slightly easier climbing leads to a bolted belay. Perhaps the best pitch on a climb full of amazing pitches. 5.12a.
P12: Continue up the corner with more of the same style of climbing. The first 20 feet are the hardest, but this pitch has a bolt or two as well. This pitch doesn't have a move as hard as the previous pitch's, but it is much more sustained and has several cruxy stemming sections. High on this pitch there is a place to traverse left to a stance on the face and belay at a bolted anchor, despite the obvious path continuing up the corner. The traverse itself is somewhat frightening for the leader and has the potential for a nasty penji back into the corner – especially if the highest bolt, a spinner, were to fail. It’s probably a good bolt, but after all those bombproof glue-ins it made me a bit nervous. 5.11d/5.12a.
P13: Two options: 1) Traverse back into the corner and continue up (perhaps the traverse/belay could be skipped altogether and this pitch could be linked with the last one?). Begin underclinging to the left on slightly lower-quality rock, passing one or two more bolts until it is possible to turn the roof system at it's left end. 5.12b? 2) Alternatively, from the belay downclimb and traverse left to a shallow left-facing corner. Climb up this to merge with the other variation just before it turns the roof. 5.11+. Both variations pull through the roofs at the same point on decent gear and some fixed pro. Belay at bolts up in a cave/alcove.
P14: Pull through the top of the cave on 5.10 thin hands and then continue up on easy ground to another bolted belay near the top of the wall. A short low fifth class scramble leads to a tree with rap slings and the top of the wall. It also makes a lot of sense to skip this pitch and just rap from the cave – a natural place to end the climb, albeit lacking the glory of the topout.
Raps will take you generally down the route but sometimes onto the face to the left. Once on Over the Rainbow Ledge, use the fixed line if necessary to gain the bolts at the far left end of the ledge. Continue rapping from here. The final rappel leaves you 20 feet shy of the ground but it is a very easy 5th class scramble down. Or you can do one more rap from the one good bolt and the manky quarter-incher at the top of the first pitch which may require leaving a biner (perhaps someone with a bolt kit wouldn't mind replacing this bolt and the one high on pitch 13 with bomber hardware?). The entire route can be rapped with a single 60m rope. Make sure not to skip anchors unless certain the next ones can be reached.
*Rainbow Country. This harder variation straightens out the line and looks fantastic. I haven’t climbed it and won’t attempt to describe it detail until I have, but from what I could see from the standard line it looks awesome, steep, and certainly the most direct path up the wall. The first pitch is short and breaks left from the ledges to gain a right-facing corner system. The second pitch takes steep, loose rock past a bolt to another bolted belay. The third pitch has six bolts and takes a steep stem box. The final pitch traverses straight right past 3 bolts to the intermediate belay just below the Red Dihedral.
**Swainbow Wall. This is an easy escape to the top of the wall from Over the Rainbow Ledge. I haven’t climbed it and won’t attempt to describe it until I have, but I honestly can’t imagine doing so… perhaps it would make sense if you find yourself at the ledge without enough daylight remaining to complete the Original Route. Nevertheless, I would sooner bail from the amazing climbing of the Red Dihedral than miss out on it entirely.
Protection
Guidebooks generally recommend a full set of cams through #4 Camalot, a set of wires including RP's, and draws. We brought:
2 ea. Purple TCU's or equivalent 3 ea. Blue and Yellow TCU's or equivalent 2 ea. 0.5 Camalots 1 ea. 0.75 through #2 Camalots 1 set Wires, 1 set RP's. 5 draws and 5 slings.
This rack turned out to be perfect, but there were two or three sections (such as the lieback right off the belay on pitch three) where a larger piece (#3 Camalot) would have been nice. We didn't use any RP's except for the largest HB bronze offset, but we definitely used many "normal" wires of all sizes.
A single 60m rope is sufficient for getting up and getting down.
For aid climbing, Greg Opland suggests:
Route goes on clean aid for most parties with very tricky section up in the Red Dihedral. Bring a full-sized rack from smallest to #4 Camalot, couple of cam hooks, skyhooks, and slider nuts.
I would just say that this is one of the most amazing free climbs I have ever done, and climbers should not be scared away by the lofty grade. Every move approaching 5.12 on the route is protected by a nice shiny bolt, allowing you both the comfort of safety and the foreknowledge that a crux may be coming. The climbing is quite sporty, by that I mean that it feels like sport climbing(not runnout), and because of this I think feels very accessible and not particularly intense for the grade. Great pro, tons of face holds, not a hand-jam in sight(literally), rap anchors everywhere, not too tall(!) - I guess what I'm trying to say is anyone clipping bolts at the gallery can, and certainly should, go clip some bolts on the rainbow wall instead!!
This route is truly phenomenal!!! Possibly the best route in Red Rock. The route is very easy to french free, and the free climbing is totally doable. Although I wouldn't send any sport'o from the gallery up there*snicker*, it's really doable for joe blow climber. Also If you're planning a full blown aid attempt pleae do not use cam hooks, they are terrible for sandstone...but I wouldn't really recomend this style- the route is much better done per the french or better yet the American's...free that sucker!!
There are approximatly 3 variations to the route. Two of them are more like separate route's that share's a bunch pitch's..the other is a true variation.
Rainbow country was put up by Dan McQuade and basically create's a 4 pitch variation that avoids the easy "over the rainbow" traversing ledge system in the center of the route. The pitch's are reported to be of very good quality and break down like this 1 5.11b,2 5.11c, 3 5.12d, 4 5.11d. You leave the OG route at the top of the first dihedrals by going left instead of right...then follow the bolts. You'll come back into the route at the base of the Red dihedral.
Swainbow wall follows the OG route to over the rainbow ledge then takes crappy looking, lower angle rock of the right side of the ledge. Climb 3 pitch's to the top. I have no idea why anyone would climb this with the red dihedrals right there....except maybe snail eye.
The 3rd variation goes left off of the 11th pitch belay. It's has bolts and is a tad easier than the OG route up the dihedral proper...and is better rock. It varies from the OG route about 20-30 ft.
The topo in Swains book is pretty good...although some of the belay location's have been changed slightly.
Currently your best bet is the Brock/mcmillan Topo...with a cross reference to swain.
PLEASE don't climb classic routes in sandstone after it rained all night!!!
Most folks will find a smaller rack to be sufficent. josh
By BrettPierce From: Colorado Springs Apr 20, 2007 rating: 5.12b
The last pitch is not worth climbing unless you really want to warm back up in the sun. Pulling the ropes from this first rappel was quite difficult. We rapped off the tree to the right of the gully with all of the slings. Maybe you could find a better option that would make pulling the ropes reasonable.
With two 70M ropes you can get down in 4.5 more raps. 1. From the cave at the top of the Red Dihedral to the ledge at the bottom of the Dihedral 2.To the big ledge finish of pitch 6 3.To the belay at the top of pitch 3 4.To the top of the first pitch 4.5 A short rap to the ground
Other than the last 12b pitch(a powerful, awkward boulder problem), the climbing is reasonable and straightforward.
By BrettPierce From: Colorado Springs May 6, 2007 rating: 5.12b
One 60M rope will probably leave you short on the first rap from the top since we needed a little rope stretch with a 70M to make it. The rest of the raps should be fine.
There is a bolted rap anchor that makes pulling your ropes easy..it's slightly hard to find...but it's right where is should be. I can't believe people rap off that tree!!! I've rapped it 4 times with a single 60M, it's all there.
In regards to not doing the last pitch...sure seems weird to do all that great climbing then not actually do the whole route. IMHO if you skip the final 5.10 pitch then you didn't climb the route.
One of the best routes I've ever done. We slept at the base, then freeclimbed it onsight, rapped, and hiked out to the car in a day. Very possible to do it car to car in a day, even if not familier w/ the approach (if freeclimbing!) I strongly recommend the .11c long pitch variation to the first two original pitches. Very good, solid, fun climbing. We rapped off w/ a single 65 meter, and belive it could be done w/ just a 60.
Saying the grade is "soft" is not the correct way to put it...too simple. It's just such a user friendly route and the climbing is of such high quality that the cruxes are not feared, they are wholly welcomed, perhaps resulting in a relaxed attitude which in turn provides the confidence and strength to send. Or maybe it is a little soft...
Whatever it is, it is a surpurb route w/ only ONE crappy pitch the whole way up. Easy routefinding, easy descent, and a great position. Can be very cold as there is no sun. Go DO IT!
Rainbow Wall
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