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Juniper Canyon
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Juniper Canyon


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Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Feb 16, 2004
Administrator: Larry DeAngelo
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BETA PHOTO: Juniper Canyon


Description 

This area has something for everyone. There are good moderate routes on the Rose Tower, Jackrabbit Buttress, and Brownstone Wall. Bigger routes are up at the Rainbow Wall and Cloud Tower.


Getting There 

The climbs in this area are most often approached from the Pine Creek parking lot. Follow the trail toward Pine Creek Canyon. Near the the mouth of the canyon, turn left (south) in the vicinity of the old homestead foundation. Cross the year-round stream and follow the trail up one long switchback to the rolling terrain along the base of the hillside. Climbs in the Rose Tower area depart westward fairly soon, but the trail continues all the way to the Juniper Canyon streambed for access to the Brownstone Wall and Rainbow Wall. Crimson Chrysalis and the Ginger Buttress are reached by crossing the streambed and climbing the steep hillside to the south.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Juniper Canyon:
Geronimo   5.6     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II   Jackrabbit Buttress
MysterZ   5.7     Trad, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   Jackrabbit Buttress
Olive Oil   5.7     Trad, 7 pitches, 200 feet   Rose Tower
Black Dagger   5.7+ PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   Brownstone Wall
Spare Rib   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet   Cloud Tower
Cat Scratch Fever   5.8     Trad, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   Brownstone Wall
Crimson Chrysalis   5.8+     Trad, 9 pitches, 1000 feet   Cloud Tower
Birdhunter Buttress   5.9     Trad, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   The Rainbow Wall
Armatron   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet   Brownstone Wall
Ginger Cracks   5.9     Trad, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III   Ginger Buttress
Arms Reduction   5.9+     Trad, 2 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Brownstone Wall
The Nightcrawler   5.10b     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II   Brownstone Wall
Power Failure   5.10     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II   Ginger Buttress
Unimpeachable Groping   5.10+     Sport, 7 pitches, 760 feet, Grade III   Ginger Buttress
Juggernaut   5.10c/d     Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Jackrabbit Buttress
Cloud Tower   5.12-     Trad, 6 pitches, 810 feet, Grade IV   Cloud Tower
The Original Route   5.12     Trad, 14 pitches, 1000 feet   The Rainbow Wall
Browse More Classics in Juniper Canyon

Featured Route For Juniper Canyon
Pat on an onsight of the Unimpeachable(pitch 4)

Unimpeachable Groping 5.10+  NV : Red Rock : ... : Ginger Buttress
An absolutely fabulous route destined for "classic" status. Originally done in seven pitches of excellent steep 5.10 face climbing. The route was later continued a few pitches higher by the late Zack Martin. Zack passed on before I could get any information about his extension, so I will only include the first seven pitches in this description. And hope that somebody will fill in the rest.The route starts halfway between Ginger Cracks and Power F...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV


Photos of Juniper Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Juniper Canyon early in the AM.

Juniper Canyon early in the AM.

Juniper Canyon

BETA PHOTO: Juniper Canyon

But I was gonna climb Crimson Chrysalis today...

But I was gonna climb Crimson Chrysalis today...

Some of the key landmarks in the Juniper Canyon area.

BETA PHOTO: Some of the key landmarks in the Juniper Canyon ar...

Juniper Canyon, November 2008.<br /><br />

Juniper Canyon, November 2008.



The Juniper canyon area

The Juniper canyon area

Gunsight Notch

Gunsight Notch

Rainbow Mountain

Rainbow Mountain